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  1. #1
    New Member TooManyProjects's Avatar
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    First hang, on the right track?

    Hey everyone!

    So a few days ago I was fortunate enough to get outside with my Hennessy Safari and attempt to hang it up. The only problem is my yard is distinctly lacking in the tree department

    I managed to use the corner of my fence and hung it between the posts (the fence is about 6' tall), but I noticed a few things:

    1.) The ridgeline was mega tight. Not so tight that you could play it like a guitar, but definitely close, and tighter than I had envisioned after all the reading that I've done on the forum.
    2.) Once I got in, I was only about 2-3" off the ground. This is a great confidence booster for someone who's new to tying up his own hammock, but not so great for getting in/out or being away from the ground. That is the point, after all.
    3.) I experienced the dreaded tight line of fabric running down the center of the hammock, causing pressure on my leg.

    In spite of all these things, I was still able to take a pretty sound 15 min nap

    I'm thinking that the tightness of the ridgeline and tight center fabric is directly related to how tight I had to string it up in order to get my a** off the ground. The fence posts are A.) only about 6' tall and B.) probably less than 15' apart...

    With that in mind, I think my next move is to bring everything into the basement and hang from the rafters. The ceiling down there is a good 8', and I've got tons of linear space. No sun though. Maybe I'll take a nap while the laundry is drying

    I guess I'm here to ask the more seasoned people if I'm on the right track, and if they have any tips for rigging up a basement hang point. I'm thinking two beefy eye bolts at each end spaced about 1-2' apart in the rafters, so I can simulate the the hang by using the tree straps as if I was outside. I'm also considering putting anchors for multiple distances to see if there's a particular span that works better than the rest...

    Thoughts?

    Thanks in advance!
    -Dave

  2. #2
    Member
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    6 ft should just be enough. unless your "trees" are farther apart than about 13 feet and you are using a short ridgeline.

    check this out then let us know.
    http://dejoha.com/projects/hammocks/...alculator.html

  3. #3
    Member
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    Sometimes you can help that tight fabric "spine" by smoothing it over with your feet. Draw your legs in and drag your heels over the hammock as you extend your legs -- sometimes it'll pull the ridge out. Caveat -- I've not yet been in a Hennessy.

    Just finished my indoor hang setup last weekend. Went into 3 studs for each mount with copious use of 3" drywall screws I had on hand. On the 2x4 end, I counter sunk them pretty deep for extra bite. The D-rings are $2/pair at Harbor Freight right now. Rated 700lbs.

    On the plywood end, the hardware screws are actually going through the plywood into the stud, since the plywood would probably rip apart by itself. Any questions just let me know.






  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    The "weak point" in your setup Hay Jay is that you've only got those two drywall screws holding down the hasp supporting your hammock (ergo your weight).

    I could see this working if you had that hasp set BEHIND the plywood next to the wall, so that all of the stress is being distributed across all of the screws evenly. But in your setup there, it seems to me that there's only those two screws directly tying that hasp to the plywood.

    I could be wrong, but that would be a cause for some concern for me.

  5. #5
    New Member TooManyProjects's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HayJay View Post
    Sometimes you can help that tight fabric "spine" by smoothing it over with your feet. Draw your legs in and drag your heels over the hammock as you extend your legs -- sometimes it'll pull the ridge out. Caveat -- I've not yet been in a Hennessy.

    Just finished my indoor hang setup last weekend. Went into 3 studs for each mount with copious use of 3" drywall screws I had on hand. On the 2x4 end, I counter sunk them pretty deep for extra bite. The D-rings are $2/pair at Harbor Freight right now. Rated 700lbs.

    On the plywood end, the hardware screws are actually going through the plywood into the stud, since the plywood would probably rip apart by itself. Any questions just let me know.






    From everything I've read, it's looking like I just didn't let the hammock sag enough, and the ridgeline was taught even before I got in it. I just need to play with it a bit more.

    I have those exact D-rings on my utility trailer and as long as the heads on those screws are wide enough and they go all the way into the stud, you should be in good shape. I personally don't trust the ones on my trailer past keeping the tarp/cargo net in place, as I only used small deck screws.

    Since I'm setting up in the basement where the floor beams are exposed, I'm going to just screw big/long eye bolts right into them. With 2 on each end of the hammock, that's about 45lbs per bolt.

    Hopefully I can make a run over to the hardware store tonight and pick them up

  6. #6
    Senior Member MrClockWork's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TooManyProjects View Post
    From everything I've read, it's looking like I just didn't let the hammock sag enough, and the ridgeline was taught even before I got in it.
    Sounds about right to me. I had to play around with this when I put a RL on my hammock. Just play with the ends of your suspension when you are setting it up until you get a little sag out of the RL and then it should tighten up just right when you get in. Worked like a charm for me. Definitely a little fiddle factor to get it right but proficiency comes with practice

  7. #7
    Senior Member watertones's Avatar
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    Make a hammock stand for your back yard. I followed JJ's pdf and built it in about 90 minutes.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...+hammock+stand

  8. #8
    Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Owl View Post
    The "weak point" in your setup Hay Jay is that you've only got those two drywall screws holding down the hasp supporting your hammock (ergo your weight).

    I could see this working if you had that hasp set BEHIND the plywood next to the wall, so that all of the stress is being distributed across all of the screws evenly. But in your setup there, it seems to me that there's only those two screws directly tying that hasp to the plywood.

    I could be wrong, but that would be a cause for some concern for me.
    Agreed, the weakest point is the hardware attachment. But the screw heads are holding well. The hardware screws are into the stud on one end and just the 2x4 on the other end.

    If anything will need future improvement, it'll likely be the hardware (and/or its attachment). But so far, things are solid as a rock. I'm pretty impressed, as I thought the hardware rings were kinda chintzy when I found them in the store -- they're holding up better than I envisioned. I'm keeping an eye on them. Thanks for the input!

    BTW, my usual MO is to see how big a cheapskate I can be and still get away with it -- before buying properly. That way I can still buy once cry once when it comes to spending real money.

  9. #9
    New Member TooManyProjects's Avatar
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    I ended up putting the eye bolts in last night. It turns out the bottom of the rafters are about 6' 3" off the ground. I put a set at 15' apart, and a set at slightly less than 12', and the difference is amazing. It was great to play with the suspension at both distances and really see the difference in how tight or loose the ridgeline would get. It also helped me soften the leg pressure issue. It was a huge help all the way around.

    It seems to me that the Safari def needs a decent amount of sag...way more than I had originally thought...

    The only rub was the fact that I found a defect in the hammock where the velcro attaches at the bottom:



    I've emailed the folks I bought it from for a replacement. Good thing my first trip out isn't until May!

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