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  1. #31
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Doctor, let us know how it works. Which way will your baffles run? Lengthwise baffles sewn to nylon with polyester thread resulted in the thread breaking as the fabric stretched. Some have used zig-zag stitching to allow for stretch, but others (whom I consider knowledgeable) don't like zig-zag. With your heavier polyester, stretching shouldn't be a problem. That leaves the question of shifting down if the tubes slope too much. I'm trying to come up with a pattern of baffles that keeps them all horizontal - sort of like contour plowing.

  2. #32
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    Nothermark, that's a good idea. The tricky part would be getting the size and shape of the bottom layers with insulation correct so it fits the top layer when it is stretched under the weight of the hanger.
    Since I have not messed with quilts i have no sense of how much nylon stretches. Have you ever tried to measure it?

    Part of the reason for the third layer was to have room for some stretch and some sag while eliminating drafts with the sealed sides and ends.

    I like the idea of low stretch polyester hammock with nylon in the quilting layers as it should reduce the shape changing while keeping weight down. I am not sure it's good to fill the hammock body with holes from sewing in the baffles.

    I liked the way the cuben hammock looked at least in part because it looked like the down distributed pretty evenly. Did it stay that way or settle overnight?

  4. #34
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Being able to see the down inside the cuben hammock made stuffing by visual inspection easier, which was a good thing, because my tapering tubes of different lengths made calculations difficult. I calculated and stuffed, then added more, as necessary. I also seriously overstuffed to make sure I didn't get settling. It seems to have worked, even in the foot area. When I make a fabric version of this hammock I'll use tubes of uniform width to make calculating easy, but I'll also use some lengthwise tubes and some cross-wise tubes to try to keep them level. And I'll overstuff again. Dealing with variations in fabric stretch for the different layers is the only area in which underquilts have an advantage over insulated hammocks, IMO. Stretching of the hammock bed varies with pressure, which is why heels and butts get cold first. It's possible to compensate for different areas of pressure, but it's not easy.

  5. #35
    Senior Member Strung out's Avatar
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    Great to see and hear the innovative work on this site.
    Thanks all for sharing.

    WV, your setup looks very nice. Full cuben summer model. quite a build man.
    maybe you'll find that it is more comfy when it's a little cooler.

    I am working on a nylon model.
    hoping to have a finished weight of near 20oz and good to 30*.
    Still stitching this, but it's going well.
    have to be done by thursday...

  6. #36
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    Here is how I did my baffles on the rough draft:



    The baffles ran parallel to the hammock body and were just straight stitched. They don't seem to be pulling the fabric much if at all. In my next draft, I might set the tension even lower to make sure.
    If the down migrates, it will tend to go to the lowest point, which is generally where your body is, so maybe not such a big deal. I was originally thinking of making my insulated secion a large rectangle but having it a bit under-stuffed, so the down would settle to the lower parts of the baffle, meaning I could lie on either diagonal, and it could also serve as a double quilt for ground sleeping if needed.

  7. #37
    Hangandy's Avatar
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    Velcro?

    Quote Originally Posted by Naegling View Post


    Something like this...
    Maybe Velcro in place of zippers? Unless the drought continues to decimate the Velcro crops. http://home.inreach.com/kumbach/velcro.html
    Long Signatures Rule!

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