The TurtleDog stand

**hppyfngy** · 02-23-2013, 18:32

Peartree, I'm not exactly clear what you're doing with the bolts and wingnuts but looking forward to seeing it.

Didn't much like the look of the big old knot in that back leg though... Be careful.

**Roadrunnr72** · 02-23-2013, 18:44

Knots=weak point ...........RR

**Roadrunnr72** · 02-23-2013, 19:10

Originally Posted by hppyfngy

Peartree, I'm not exactly clear what you're doing with the bolts and wingnuts but looking forward to seeing it.

Didn't much like the look of the big old knot in that back leg though... Be careful.

I'm guessing that the nuts will be replaced by the wingnuts, so that the hinges can be taken apart for transport

........RR

**Peartree** · 02-23-2013, 19:31

I know - I saw that too - the flash really highlights the knots.

**Peartree** · 02-23-2013, 23:35

This is what I meant. Yes I see the knots - Dangit! I thought I was looking for them, went thru a bunch and still missed them. So, I'm going to replace a leg or 2. Also need shorter wood screws. Ah, the tweak...

**gmcttr** · 02-24-2013, 01:00

Originally Posted by Peartree

This is what I meant...

You're headed in the wrong direction for strength and safety.

You have effectively increased the leverage ratio able to act on the back leg and it's single bolt if it slips at the ground.

I would not consider using this without spread limiters.

I suggest you go back to a hinge.

**Arothian** · 02-24-2013, 08:44

So I'm diving in on this project. Picked up materials yesterday.

I'm planning on making a 13' ridge pole, using 3 sections of top rail (2 - 4' and 5') .

My question is, what is a good starting point for the leg lengths given my rail size? Should I go higher for a longer rail compared to say a stock 10' 6" rail some use?

I read a lot of post but didn't see any clear information. I saw hppyfngy post about "75" for the longer legs, and 72-1/4" for the shorter one". Maybe that is a good starting point?

**hppyfngy** · 02-24-2013, 08:56

Originally Posted by Arothian

Should I go higher for a longer rail compared to say a stock 10' 6" rail some use?

I read a lot of post but didn't see any clear information. I saw hppyfngy post about "75" for the longer legs, and 72-1/4" for the shorter one". Maybe that is a good starting point?

Short answer is start longer if you're concerned at all about it. Lots easier to cut more off than add length back.

I think my outdoor stand with the longer ridge pole is something like 80" and 76" but it seems a little tall for what I need really.

Originally Posted by gmcttr

You're headed in the wrong direction for strength and safety.

You have effectively increased the leverage ratio able to act on the back leg and it's single bolt if it slips at the ground.

I would not consider using this without spread limiters.

I suggest you go back to a hinge.

I'm afraid I have to agree completely. This solution without the hinge is much less stable IMHO. You've moved all the stress to the very ends of the 2x's and added more holes making them more likely to split...

BTW, I was also frustrated with trying to find knot free 2x's at the home centers. Go to a real lumberyard and ask for "clear or better" 2x2's. At my local lumberyard these are all perfect and I don't even have to look through them for knots or bends, I just grab however many I need.

**Roadrunnr72** · 02-24-2013, 09:05

Originally Posted by gmcttr

You're headed in the wrong direction for strength and safety.

You have effectively increased the leverage ratio able to act on the back leg and it's single bolt if it slips at the ground.

I would not consider using this without spread limiters.

I suggest you go back to a hinge.

I agree, your putting a lot of undue stress on the wood. You have now made the stand rigid, with the hinge, you still have a little movement, which will reduce the stress. If you are transporting the stand, it's also going to take longer and be a little harder to set up. The use of spread limiters is going to be a must IMO. But as they say, HYOH, and if you do stick with this design, the least you can do for us, is have someone videoing the first couple of times you try it out/move around a little

, you may have some great shots.

Originally Posted by Arothian

So I'm diving in on this project. Picked up materials yesterday.

I'm planning on making a 13' ridge pole, using 3 sections of top rail (2 - 4' and 5') .

My question is, what is a good starting point for the leg lengths given my rail size? Should I go higher for a longer rail compared to say a stock 10' 6" rail some use?

I read a lot of post but didn't see any clear information. I saw hppyfngy post about "75" for the longer legs, and 72-1/4" for the shorter one". Maybe that is a good starting point?

My ridgepole is about 12' 6", I think. When I built mine, I bought/used 8' 2x2s, set it up with a hammock, measured from the hammock to the ground to see how much to cut off the legs. Went a little long the first cut, as I didn't want to cut too much, checked it again, then made the final cut. To cut, I marked the legs from the bottom up, picked up a leg, cut a little off, moved to the next, repeat until all are done. The final cut, when I knew how much more to remove, I too the stand down, so all the legs would line up, and made one cut across all three legs. A little time consuming, but it worked the best, for me........RR

**Peartree** · 02-24-2013, 10:47

Have to agree with you Gents. I grew increasingly worried about the same things as I fussed with drilling the holes - no testing - and sadly, no videos forthcoming. Plus, as I tightened the lower bolt on the A I was uncomfortable with the reverse force on the top bolt. Thanks for the tip on a real lumberyard. I'll just get a stronger hinge - I also agree with the setup/teardown ease of the hinge after messing with this. Thanks for the feedback.