The TurtleDog stand

[olddog]

So I have been thinking about this... there are 220 pages and I have not read all of it, just a few and then done a search for conduit. Please forgive me if I am stating what others have said multiple times before.

I'm guessing folks are using this two ways. Either attaching the hammock to the ridge so its ability to not bend upwards and fail is what would be important, the stands would just hold the pole up and resist the downward component of the force but it would be the ridge supporting the hammock. Alternatively you could attach the hammock to the stands and then the ridge would serve to stop the stands toppling inwards in which case the important part of the ridge is no longer whether it flexes but if the two ends of the joined ridge could slip past each other and how to attach the ridge to the stands (it can no longer just hang down, it needs to resist inward motion).

If you use the second way of attaching it, the join in the ridge wouldn't have to be too strong, it would just need to hold it in place, correct? A pole should be very strong in compression that way.

Kind of early for me and just getting my first caffeine fix of the morning. Took a few rereads and then the mental visualization thing. In either of the methods you discuss the compressive force on the ridge pole is going to be the same or very near the same. In the first the hammock is pulling on both ends of the ridgepole with the pole in suspension. In the second the hammock is pulling the stands together with the ridgepole in compression between the stands. We determined that the bending/flexing of the ridgepole was dependent on the hammocks attachment to the RP. If the hammock is attached outboard of the RP suspension the RP would bow up, similar to drawing a long bow. If in board of the suspension point it would bend the RP downward. Now if the RP was fixed between the stands as I believe you are suggesting and the hammock attached to the stand the compression on the RP should be the same as a suspended RP. If using the standard chain link fence top rail for a RP the swagged ends will keep the ends from slipping past each other. I'm at 200 lbs. now, down from 225, and I still don't think I would be comfortable in a hammock with anything smaller than the top rail RP. In your previous post you mentioned sleeveing 1" inside 1 1/2" conduit. If any of that failed the pieces may turn into skewers or at least head knockers. If you come up with a way to affix the RP between the stands please share it with us. You may just have the next greatest hammock stand. Be safe!

[novascotia-hanger]

If you cut the tripod legs in half (go from 6 ft legs to 3 ft pieces) and added a sleeve over the cut (all for portability) would that compromise the legs?

[skwatupu]

Are you talking about wood legs?

Has anyone done this? What would you use as a sleeve?

Has anyone used square steel tubing with holes for legs (galvanized sign post)?

In theory they could work as your tripod legs and you could use hardware to join 3' lengths.

[AaronMB]

Are you talking about wood legs?

Has anyone done this? What would you use as a sleeve?

Has anyone used square steel tubing with holes for legs (galvanized sign post)?

In theory they could work as your tripod legs and you could use hardware to join 3' lengths.

I think there's been mention of a few folks here trying a square tube for a sleeve.

Byer of Maine's Madera stand does this. In their 30 second video you can get a shot of how they use the sleeve and cut the legs--where they go into the sleeve--at a long angle to get a tight fit. You'd definitely want to avoid any sloppiness in the fitting to keep the compression on the wooden legs consistent.

[kayak4water]

I think there's been mention of a few folks here trying a square tube for a sleeve.

Byer of Maine's Madera stand does this. In their 30 second video you can get a shot of how they use the sleeve and cut the legs--where they go into the sleeve--at a long angle to get a tight fit. You'd definitely want to avoid any sloppiness in the fitting to keep the compression on the wooden legs consistent.

It appears from the video at the link, that the hardwood leg segments have a compound cut at the joint that during compression would push each piece to opposing corners. That'd make for a tighter fit, but maybe too tight to ease dis-assembly?

Are you talking about wood legs?

Has anyone done this? What would you use as a sleeve?

Has anyone used square steel tubing with holes for legs (galvanized sign post)?

In theory they could work as your tripod legs and you could use hardware to join 3' lengths.

I'd do this with aluminum tubing 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" with pieces 12" long, I'l just trim down the legs on my TDS to fit. My next project for state park/asphalt hanging, after I finish bugnets for 2 bridge hammocks.

[Grizhicks]

Made 2 more this weekend (total of 4):

5' legs for 7-1/2 y/o grand son (should allow for some growth)
4' legs for 3-1/2 y/o grand daughter (whatever brother has, she has to have)

have 102" tablecloths on order; plan on starting his at about 6' and hers at 4-1/2 to 5'

I'll post pics when I get them done -- Grizhicks

[StrungOut]

So I have been scouring the thread TRYING to find the appropriate wood to be using as I know Pine likes to bend and dent. I was thinking hard Maple if I can find it in 2x2s... or just rip 3 2x4s... Any other suggestions?

[edwilcox]

Made mine out of construction grade pine. No problems.

[hppyfngy]

So I have been scouring the thread TRYING to find the appropriate wood to be using as I know Pine likes to bend and dent. I was thinking hard Maple if I can find it in 2x2s... or just rip 3 2x4s... Any other suggestions?

Maple would be totally overkill.
Go to a real lumberyard and ask for "clear or better" 2x2's. They should be very straight grained and knot free.
No worries.

[StrungOut]

IMG_0149.jpgIMG_0150.jpgIMG_0154.jpg

Well, looks like I'm another proud TDS owner! Now to find an angle grinder and cut the 2nd top rail to make a total of a 13' span!