My theory is that you want just a slight amount of curve in the hammock end, which effectively makes the centerline if the hammock longer than the edges. This may be the secret to eliminating the dreaded ridge.
BTW: olddog, judging by your 3rd picture, your system seems to be working!
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
When loaded the cord thru the channel bows under the weight allowing the edges of the hammock to be pulled tighter reducing some but not all of the slack in the edges. Similar to pulling the corners of a hammock out when folding and whipping. Somewhere back in the thread I believe it was discussed. Can't remember who or where.
Most of us end up poorer here but richer for being here. Olddog, Fulltime hammocker, 365 nights a year.
Most of us end up poorer here but richer for being here. Olddog, Fulltime hammocker, 365 nights a year.
I spent most of yesterday afternoon and evening reading and re-reading this thread. I am hoping to use this on my taffeta hammock, but am experimenting on a spare Byer Traveler UL until I am satisfied with it.
For my spreader bar set-up, I started with a locked brummel loop in the center of a 36" piece of 7/64" Amsteel. Next I buried one side for about 3" and then put the bury cord through the sliding cord to lock it. The Amsteel continues for 9" until it reaches the spreader bar. At the bar, I drilled 2 holes rather than cutting a slot. I put the Amsteel through the holes, went another 5" and then made a fixed loop on each cord. The free cord was then buried the length of the spreader bar.
I chose the locked brummel loop in the center because I use Elephant Trunks and wanted a method to be able to continue using them. I will be testing these today and hopefully tonight. I would seriously appreciate any critiques from those that have already been playing with this option.
Ellis
Last edited by alrany187; 08-18-2012 at 09:33.
Nice work Alrany, thats looking really good. Thats a good idea to start with the fixed eye and go down to the bar from there. Well done.
Good luck,
RED
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