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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by leeinmemphis View Post
    it folded just outside of the slip joint. When I sat it held me for a few seconds then as soon as I laid down on it it laid down on me. I thought by me posting about my weight and pipe I ended up using I was helping others. Guess not
    Lee: Thanks for the info. I was about to build the longer top rail version like you did and would have had the same results.

    For the engineers out there:
    Would cutting the pipe to have the joint(s) closer to the end of the top rail rather than one joint in the center where it can flex more? (sections of 2ft - 10 ft - 2ft )
    I'm considering adding the coupling to re-enforce the joint. thoughts?

  2. #22
    Senior Member
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    Thank you, Lee, for adding the link from the TL stand thread to here.

    Joyfully, TL

  3. #23
    hppyfngy's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    One thing that's been pointed out on making these tripod based stands as reliable as possible is keeping the forces as near the center of the tripod as is possible.

    In my case, my suspension attaches as near where the ridge pole hangs as I can get it, just behind the collar of the end cap. You can imagine that the further away from the tripod's center you are with the end of the ridge pole suspension attachment, the more of a fulcrum you are creating, transferring force downward on the ends of the ridge pole, and upward on the joint in the ridge pole.



    Another thing I do to help strengthen the ridge pole is to have my suspension pass through that end cap connector and then the two whoopies meet in the middle via a carabiner. This transfers some of the stress onto the length of the ridge pole by way of compression, which helps the joints stay solid.

    Lee, I think if you could hang your hammock from a point directly under the center of the tripod you'll be putting a lot less stress on that joint in the middle of the pole. Theoretically you want your weight to hang from the tripods and the ridge pole is only there to keep the suspension ends that far apart from each other.

    Spiffy, I think your idea should work but if you can try to do as I describe above I don't really think they would be necessary. Those connectors should be fine too, IMHO.

    (I am not an Engineer, but I have ridden on many trains.)

    hfg
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  4. #24

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Santa Rosa, CA
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    Heavy Hanger $0.02

    I used a standard 10' top rail, bolted on end caps with quick links. I only experienced failure (bowing upward) when my hang angle was less than thirty degrees. The pipe bowed in the middle, the angle of the continous amsteel loops from which the pipe hung changed from vertical to pulling inward and down I came.

    Interestingly, I straightened the pipe, adjusted my hang angle to about 35 degrees and spent several hours more in the hammock with no problems... on the compromised pipe!!!

    So, needless to say, it was the most instructive demonstration of the hangle (hang angle) effect on inward forces.

    BTW, I weigh 320#. So, I am convinced that the original TurtleDog stand will work for heavy hangers if the proper hangle is observed.

  5. #25
    hppyfngy's Avatar
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    Very good point BigV. Getting less than the 30* angle greatly increases the force.

    (hangle.... I like it...)
    Caution: Happy Fun Guy may suddenly accelerate to dangerous speeds.
    If Happy Fun Guy begins to smoke, get away immediately. Seek shelter and cover head.
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