Anyone made a fronkey style bugnet for their bridge hammock?

[Heyoka]

Hark Hammock Hangers!

I just completed my first Ariel Grizzbridge hammock . It has parts scavenged from my first failed attempt at a bridge hammock and is fairly comfortable (but I can't say if I can sleep in it without shoulder pain , yet). This is the fifth bridge hammock that I've made . I've made five because the first four have too much shoulder squeeze for me to sleep in. They all have bugnets and zippers which I now realize is a huge waste of my time and money. They are also all "kludgy" in that when loaded the zipper stretches enough to mess with the zipper sliders sliding. I've noticed this on a commercial bridge hammock as well.

The addition of the bugnets for these designs is actually much more problematic and time consuming than making any of the hammock bodies. I'm a block(chain)head but have accepted that for a variety of reasons , I should build removable bug nets instead .

If any of you can provide insight and inspiration into removable bridge bug net solutions that don't require zippers I would be filled with gratitude!

[Flatliner]

What about the magnet solution that Grizz recommends for it?


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[Shug]

Here is my solution. And yes, it is effective. Used it on the trip below.

Shug

[gargoyle]

Permethrin.

[Heyoka]

What about the magnet solution that Grizz recommends for it?


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I'm afraid that I'm not quite so patient as to line up the magnets.

[Heyoka]

Thanks for sharing, Shug! Those flaps are a great idea I hadn't thought of. They should make it easy to make and intuitive to escape.

[Flatliner]

I'm afraid that I'm not quite so patient as to line up the magnets.

I'm not sure there is much lining up needed with rare earth magnets but I'm not the one making a big net.


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[norman60546]

I recently made a ariel hammock also and would love to see any and all diy bug nets for the ariel.

[GrizzlyAdams]

I cooked up an easy-to-build bugnet for Boy Scout summer camp, which is equivalent to car camping. You trade weight to get easy build. Will have to describe by words as I'm 13 time-zones away from my rig, and will be for a couple of weeks.

This works for any bridge hammock. Will completely enclose it, suspension triangles and all. Measure the distance from apex to apex of triangles, the length of a ridgeline. Add 6" (3" per end for seam allowance and careless measurement, You're going to make a rectangle of bug netting, and this is the length of one side of it.
The length of the other side...put your under quilt on if you use one, get someone in the hammock to load it (and make it drop.) Tighten up that ridgeline. Tie a string on the ridgeline, at the center, and loop it down around the under quilt and back up again to the ridgeline. That measurement is smaller than what you want because you want some gap between the under quilt and netting. Might add a couple of feet to the measurement, you might add that to the string and see what kind of gap it gives you.

When I did this I had bug netting 118" wide and that was perfect for the ridgeline length. If you use narrower bug netting you'll have to attach some narrower pieces (probably not more than 2 pieces, if the width is 60") to make this rectangle.

you'll want a zipper with two heads connecting the edges of the rectangle the length of the ridgeline. Zipped up that will give you a cylinder. When the bug net is hung that zipper should be at the side of the hammock at a level where you can unzip, slip in and zip it up again. Now to do the ends of the cylinder. At least one end will have to admit the whole hammock coming through, so imagine attaching the edges from the ridgeline down a couple of feet using omnitape. The rest of the way sew it. You could do this at both ends, I only did it at one end, the other end I attached the edges for about 4" using omnitape and sewed the edges.

One last thing is that you can remove excess material at the bottom corners by turning the bug net inside out and pulling in the corner, I dunno, a foot or foot and half.
This pulling in will bring sides of the netting together through which you can run a stitch and then cut off the excess on the corner side of the stitch.
(This is the hard part to visualize without doing it...) pull the corner in so that those sides that are brought together are parallel to the ground, rather than their natural
state of being perpendicular to the ground. Sort of squares off the bottom of the bugnet at the corners.

A variation would be to forego the zipper and try the Fronkey style of cord at the body. I haven't tried this, but I know the geometry of the bridge body could change how that works. The hammock body curves in at the sides in the middle, whereas a gathered end hammock is widest there and then narrows, which is part of the 'seal' you get with the Fronkey style.

YMMV