I have a stupid question and someone may have asked it already and I missed it.
You take the loop end of the webbing and put the biner through it.
The you take the other end of the webbing and run it through the biner.
That end goes down and runs through the rings and you pull tight to hold the webbing in place.
ok my question...why do you need the biner?? Just run the other end of the webbing through the loop end and procede like normal through the rings.
The webbing will be what fails not the biner. So if the webbing breaks you will still fall down whether you use the biner or not.
By not using the biner you have one less piece of equipment to keep up with.
Any reason that won't work?
I don't use a biner. I just use the dual rings for easy adjustment. Basically, I have full length webbing (15 feet each side). And use the Speer four wrap knot.
Not at all - that's what I've been doing with my CC buckles for a while. The biner just makes things a bit quicker and more convenient. By using the clip-on biner instead of threading through the webbing loop, you can leave the hammock end of the webbing threaded into the buckle. That way the whole bit is one piece. So by adding a couple biners (and a couple ounces) you're actually reducing the number of pieces to keep up with.
"Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson
It has been stated that looping the webbing that way is more abrasive to the webbing itself than biner. I can't say whether that is true or not, but that's the theory.
The biner adds some convenience. To loop the webbing through it's own loop, you have to have it free from the rings. By not having the biner on there, you don't have to do that, and can essentially just sling the biner end around the trees and pull tight.
“I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy
I just finished ordering all the piece/parts for my ring buckles. Some of it won't be here till the 27th (when the local REI gets their shipment, but the shipping's free that way). I got the webbing from Ed, ordered at the hangout last weekend, the camp wire gate biners and some back-ordered rings from Mountain Gear, some supposedly not back-ordered rings and some figure 9's from REI. When I have rings in hand I may cancel the back-ordered ones, or just wait and get those to have extra's for my yet-to-be-even-designed-much-less-made other hammocks.
I'll get this hammocking thing figured out yet. Special thanks to Slowhike for showing me how to use the figure 9's on the tarp.
Bad spellers of the world Untie!
I heard from a climber, well more than one, that threading webbing though webbing is a no-no. They were talking about linking two lengths of climbing webbing together by threading through the end loops. Something about webbing to webbing wear and the webbing failing. Don't know if the same applies to hammock use.
I use the biner simply because it is much easier and quicker to click the webbing into the biner than thread 7' to 10' of webbing through the end loop and then pulling it back out again.
I started out without the biner. I experienced what I can best discribe as the webbing welding to itself in the loop. The force from me using it from one night appeared to fuse the webbing together at the loop. Not something I would trust to the long haul.
I now use 2 biners. A lot easier to use and adjust. No adverse effects on the webbing. I am playing around with using the biners during the day to attach water bottles to the straps on my gearskin. Easiest way I have found so far to easily get to my water bottle with the pack on.
Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".