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  1. #91
    Senior Member FanaticFringer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    I've found that, for me, whether the webbing slips depends a whole lot on the stiffness the cord/rope tied to the rings, the knot used to tie to the rings, the stiffness of the webbing and even the direction I thread the webbing through the rings.

    If the rope is pretty stiff, a simple larks head or a full turn and 2 half hitches will tend to make the webbing slip if you thread the buckle in the wrong direction. If you look at the rope and rings from the side, you can see that the stiff cord pulls more on one ring than the other with the larks head. The full turn with 2 half hitches does the same. If the cord is very flexible and the webbing is fairly flexible, the webbing will pull the rings even and help alleviate this problem. If the webbing is fairly stiff, then the webbing cannot pull the rings even. If the webbing is then threaded in the opposite direction from the cord pull, the webbing holds. If the webbing is threaded to enhance the uneven pull from the cord, then the webbing will slip.

    3 solutions that I have found to work for me:

    1. make sure that the cord and webbing are both fairly flexible and the problem doesn't seem to appear. The webbing can pull the rings even and the cord is flexible enough that it will conform to the pull by the webbing.

    2. if the cord is fairly stiff, then do not use any knot like a larks head or full turn and 2 half hitches. Any knot in which the force is transmitted mostly by one thread of the knot can make the webbing slip in this case. You need a knot that will pull both rings equally. I have found that wrapping the cord around the rings at least twice and preferably at least 3 times and tying back with a bowline will work. This arrangement pulls both rings equally no matter if the cord is stiff or flexible.

    3. If the webbing is fairly to very stiff, then you will definitely need to go with the wrap and bowline solution since the webbing pulls unequally on the rings and even a little unequal pull by the cord can cause slippage if the unequal forces from the webbing and cord line up.

    Hope this helps in understanding why the webbing may slip sometimes and not other times.

    When you say "even" rings, is it ok if they are slightly uneven? That's how mine are with my Hennessy Spectra attached to the rings. No problems with slipping. As I tie the bowline it is a little hard to get both sides of the spectra to be exactly the same tension.
    "Every day above ground is a good day"

  2. #92
    Senior Member lvleph's Avatar
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    I just found these rings. They seem like essentially the same thing and have a breaking strength of 2000lbs.

  3. #93
    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FanaticFringer View Post
    When you say "even" rings, is it ok if they are slightly uneven? That's how mine are with my Hennessy Spectra attached to the rings. No problems with slipping. As I tie the bowline it is a little hard to get both sides of the spectra to be exactly the same tension.
    apparently there are several things to take a look at... rope stiffness & the way it's attached to the rings, & the kind of webbing being used, as well as the way it's threaded through the rings.
    it's possible that some rings may have a smoother, slicker finish than others & maybe that would play some part. but i suspect the the rope & attachment and the webbing are the main things to look at.
    some people have had no problems w/ slipping, but others have.
    here is a picture of my rings being pulled uneven by the larks head.
    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...5/P2250065.JPG
    you can see the simple slip knot i used to stop it. even if i couldn't solve the slippage problem, using the slip knot (or what ever you call that) makes the rings the easiest adjustable system i've used yet. ...tim
    I too will something make and joy in it's making

  4. #94
    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvleph View Post
    I just found these rings. They seem like essentially the same thing and have a breaking strength of 2000lbs.
    looks like that would work fine, but i didn't see a weight.
    i'm wondering if alum rings that size would still be plenty strong?
    I too will something make and joy in it's making

  5. #95
    Senior Member FanaticFringer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    apparently there are several things to take a look at... rope stiffness & the way it's attached to the rings, & the kind of webbing being used, as well as the way it's threaded through the rings.
    it's possible that some rings may have a smoother, slicker finish than others & maybe that would play some part. but i suspect the the rope & attachment and the webbing are the main things to look at.
    some people have had no problems w/ slipping, but others have.
    here is a picture of my rings being pulled uneven by the larks head.
    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...5/P2250065.JPG
    you can see the simple slip knot i used to stop it. even if i couldn't solve the slippage problem, using the slip knot (or what ever you call that) makes the rings the easiest adjustable system i've used yet. ...tim
    My rings are a little more even than that. I think I will wrap the spectra 4 times around the rings instead of 3 and see what happens. Or maybe I wont after looking again at Jeff's pictures of his. That is how uneven mine are. Now that I think about it, I would think it would be the norm for it to be a little uneven due to factors such as angle, force, etc.
    Last edited by FanaticFringer; 02-25-2007 at 19:06.
    "Every day above ground is a good day"

  6. #96
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvleph View Post
    I just found these rings. They seem like essentially the same thing and have a breaking strength of 2000lbs.
    I have these stainless steel, SS, rings from Annapolis Performance Sailing:

    http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e814.asp

    Both the 1" ID and the 1.25" ID. Both are rated at 4,000 lbs force breaking strength and 1430 lbs force working strength.

    I find that either will work. The 1" ID rings make using the 1" webbing more difficult since there isn't much clearance between the ring ID and the webbing. Pushing the webbing through the inside of the ring makes you realize how cramped it is inside the ring and also between the rings. The strapworks webbing I have, which is fairly stiff, is a real struggle to use with the rings. The load strap webbing from Harbor Freight is fairly easy to use with the 1" ID and above rings because it is really, really flexible and nice to work with and much lighter than the strapworks webbing. The 1.25" ID rings alleviate this problem somewhat, but they are still more difficult to work with than the 1.5" ID SMC AL descending rings. Also, each of the 1" ID APS SS rings weigh as much as 2 of the AL descending rings and, of course, the 1.25" ID SS rings are a bit heavier. Granted we're not talking pounds here, but tenths of an ounce.

    Any of the three I have used, the SMC descending rings and the 2 APS SS rings work with with the right combination cord and webbing. The smaller the ID and the stiffer the webbing, the harder to work with and also the more prone to slipping in my experience.

  7. #97
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    The picture by slowhike illustrates how the larks head hitch can pull the rings unevenly. Granted the forces on the buckle by the webbing also tend to pull the rings uneven, but the larks head, in my experience aggravates the problem.

    The webbing that slowhike is using seems to be very flexible and I find that helps greatly to reduce slippage.

    slowhike - is that seat belt webbing? It looks like the color of most seat belts I am familiar with. 1" polyester seat belt webbing would really be ideal - very flexible and very strong with all of the advantages ofpolyester.

  8. #98
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Fanatic Fringer - I wrap the line around the rings 3 times, then tie the bowline with a double overhand safety knot. I keep the wraps loose until the bowline is finished and then grab the line past the bowline and slowly pull the wraps tight. For me, that always pulls both parts of the line to the rings to an equal length. Once the wraps have been pulled tight and the hammock hung once, the wraps stay tight and the parts equal. I don't make the bowline very close to the rings. I give about 2 inchs or so of distance from the bowline to the rings. That makes it easy to re-loosen the wraps and pull tight evenly again if necessary.

  9. #99
    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    The picture by slowhike illustrates how the larks head hitch can pull the rings unevenly. Granted the forces on the buckle by the webbing also tend to pull the rings uneven, but the larks head, in my experience aggravates the problem.

    The webbing that slowhike is using seems to be very flexible and I find that helps greatly to reduce slippage.

    slowhike - is that seat belt webbing? It looks like the color of most seat belts I am familiar with. 1" polyester seat belt webbing would really be ideal - very flexible and very strong with all of the advantages ofpolyester.
    the webbing in that shot is 1" tubular from the climbing section.
    i bought that to use at home until i got some more of ed's 1" to use.
    i had been using the 1" poly webbing from wal-mart, but i broke it a couple times & fortunantly saw the fraying or the beginning of a tear before it broke on a couple other pieces.
    i have some of ed's 1" now, but i may also try out some of the harbor freight webbing too.
    the tubular is way heavier than i want to take backpacking. and because it's so heavy, slick, & flexible, it's own weight (that is, the extra hanging down from the rings) pulls it to one side of the rings causing it to slip.
    I too will something make and joy in it's making

  10. #100
    Senior Member lvleph's Avatar
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    How about using a Prusik Knot? That might keep the rings from shifting and the webbing from slipping.

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