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  1. #11
    Senior Member swankfly's Avatar
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    May 2012
    South Louisiana

    Hang App

    Quote Originally Posted by BrianWillan View Post
    Of course one could be a little more scientific about the whole process.


    That's my problem, if you use a 13' distance, common in small bedrooms these days it gives you a wall hang height of 63". If I am hanging from the rafters, it's gonna be a lot more severe angle than 30 degrees. I have to go to a 22' spread before i get to a 96" wall height? Right?

  2. #12
    Senior Member Cannibal's Avatar
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    May 2007
    Denver, CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by swankfly View Post
    If I am hanging from the rafters, it's gonna be a lot more severe angle than 30 degrees. I have to go to a 22' spread before i get to a 96" wall height? Right?
    A bit more complicated getting the distances right, but I had this problem at our last house. The sleeping loft had a vaulted ceiling and the area I was trying to hang from was around 12', or so, high. My solution was to drop a length of chain from the ceiling attachment point, then clip the hammock to the chain. But, because the chains will pull in as the hammock is loaded, what was 30į isn't even close anymore. Takes some experimenting to get everything spot-on. Math would probably come in handy, but I see little fun in that.
    Trust nobody!

  3. #13
    Senior Member SweetLou's Avatar
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    Dec 2009
    Cincinnati, OH
    DIY gathered end
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannibal View Post
    Math would probably come in handy, but I see little fun in that.
    Oh! I see a Grizzly Adams vs Cannibal scuffle in the future.

  4. #14
    New Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    eastern PA
    hand netted garden hammock
    I like tbctx's idea of a hammock stand. No damage to walls or ceiling

    If you google hammock stand plans you will find ideas for all ability levels. Tony

  5. #15
    olddog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Lakeland, Fl
    WL Snipe
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    Dutch speedhooks
    This is the stand that I use every night. Would need some shortening for your space constraints. I got mine from My wifes aunt but they can be bought for $100 at times.
    Most of us end up poorer here but richer for being here. Olddog, Fulltime hammocker, 365 nights a year.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    May 2010
    WWM with Dynaglide whoopies
    8.5x10 Zpack
    DreamHmck slng/tog

    Simpson brand metal joiners

    My opinion is to go to Home Depot or Lowes and look at Simpson Strong Tie metal brackets for 4" x 4" beams. Use two vertical posts against the walls and one horizontal piece spanning between them, perhaps with a under piece on the floor to spread the weight and give an anchor for the bottom of the angled supports.

    If you are suspending from the horizontal one, have it on top of the ends of the vertical ones. Cut the posts and the center piece for that and turn the Simpson piece the right way for that position.v-----v

    If you are suspending from the vertical posts, the force is pulling the top of them toward the middle of the room so cut the horizontal piece to fit between the tops of the posts. Turn the Simpson piece to hold the top one wedged between the two verticals. >|-----|<

    You will need to block the posts to keep them from falling sideways when you are swinging in the hammock. You can probably use other Simpson brackets to help with that, or brace them with angle cut pieces on each side. /|\

    Having all of the weight on the vertical posts may leave a mark on the floor, but a protective horizontal bottom piece would also tie in the angled side pieces to the post.

    / | \

    Plan B is a pipe frame as shown at Trail Days where the hammock sellers are displaying their models. It is a vertical box for strength with T legs for outriggers. Pad under the legs to protect the floor. If you built the top rail high enough you could just walk under it during the day, but you would have to step over the bottom rail.

    Your idea has be solved by others so I second the suggestion to Google search for what is available.
    Last edited by heyyou; 08-18-2012 at 02:50. Reason: clarity

  7. #17
    Senior Member Les Rust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Athens, TN
    WL Big Daddy
    straps and stuff
    I had a similar constraint for hanging my daughter's rig in her small room. I could use the walls so I built a 2x4 frame and attached to the walls with a doubled 2x3 top beam; it works great. In your case I would consider making a 2x4 frame that was free standing in the corners on the shorter axis. a full post in each corner and then brace legs that come off along the side walls; it would have the effect of a three-legged stand but without taking up any space in the room. It would need a top beam as well, but even that would be under 144" so it could be from common dimension stock. you could then have hooks at any space along the corner post to adjust your hang angle. I don't really have a good way to draw this up, but hopefully you can get the idea of what I'm offering.

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Rochester, NY
    pads, foam
    another thing to consider is that bolts in shear do not need nuts as there is no significant force to pull them out. If you drill them for a spring pin and maybe a washer you can pull them apart without tools. That may let you break down the setup fairly quickly if your object is to clear the room fairly often.

  9. #19
    Senior Member PuckerFactor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    SW VA
    DIY 11' double layer 1.1
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    7/64&quot;whoopie sling
    How about building a stand like a swingset (A-frame on each end and a pipe "ridgeline") and make it so it fits snugly between 2 of the walls (probably along the 116" wall)? That way you would be using the full length of one wall, and it wouldn't intrude into the room much.

    I hope you find a way!
    It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

    Formerly known as Acercanto, my trail name is MacGuyver to some, and Pucker Factor to others.

    It's not procrastinating, its proactively delaying the implementation of the energy-intensive phase of the project until the enthusiasm factor is at its maximum effectiveness. - Randy Glasbergen

  10. #20
    Well, I've given the ideas here some consideration, and I think I like the idea of suspending from the ceiling rafters the best. I understand that the frame idea is more to my requirements in the first post, however for the purpose of function and weight loads, I think putting a two sections (four feet each) of treated 2x4 across the ceiling rafters on either given side will provide me with redundant weight limits. I was thinking that I could hang square U bolts over said 2x4 with swiveled pad eyes (square base) into the said supported 2x4. This would keep exposed hardware to a complete minimum, however, i believe that this would complicate hang distance because of that corner i would have to watch for swinging into. Can anyone recommend how far i should move away from the corner closest to my door so that i don't end up swinging into that corner? Or for that matter, how wide a of a hammock I can actually support in my given space? I can't really use the measurements of the hammock fabric ((to my knowledge) that i haven't picked or ordered yet :X) as a guide because once my weight is in it, it will not be to spec. I have yet to climb into the attic and work out how this will go down, but so far this is my plan. Thank you all very much for your input and quick responses. By the way, I decided that instead of building a stand i would go ahead and repay my parents for a security deposit / ceiling tiles if absolutely necessary. Not a huge deal.

    I apologize for my ignorance :C

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