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  1. #11
    Senior Member Rat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigevilgrape View Post
    I have a bulb air squeeze thing for cleaning my lenses, it sounds like thats what you are talking about. Maybe this will be a good project for the weekend. I have been wanting to take it in for a tune up/clean out since I inherited it 2 years ago, but its so expensive and the machine has been running fine.
    Yep, same thing. In fact, mine was originally bought to clean my lenses and camera bodies as well.
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  2. #12
    New Member brotherjohn's Avatar
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    sometimes its fun to let someone else lubricate your machine so you can just sit back and watch
    nail your shoes to the kitchen floor lace 'em up and bar the door and thank the lucky stars for the roof over you

  3. #13
    Senior Member Rat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    I do not advocate the use of 3-in-1 oil for use in sewing machines. This is a mixture of several different "lubricants" some of which dry rather than lubricate. I know it says it can be used on sewing machines and was widely used in the past. But I think a very light machine oil is a much better product to use. The 3-in-1 can is a very useful tool for getting drops of oil. But a pin point oiler is far superior imo. OYOM Oil your own machine
    Not to start a bonfire...
    But, 3 in 1, Singer, Lilly White all have virtually identical ingredients according to their MSDS. In fact, I would be willing to bet that many of them have the same source and are just re-branded. Hoppes lubricating oil is the only true single part distillate I know of; I guess that is why it is a bit more expensive.
    Also, you may see 10W-20 motor oil referenced as a light machine oil, and it is in reality, but it also contains detergents that we do not want on our machine surfaces.

    To make Rev's point though, a light machine oil must be used; do NOT use penetrating oils like WD-40, liquid wrench or that sort. They are NOT lubricating oils and will not protect your machine.

    And yes, pinpoint oilers are nice; sometimes one drop from a 3 in 1 is too much! But for us, if you get too much, just soak up a little with the cotton swab/patch.

    I don't know why 3 in 1 always gets a bad rap. Even on the bicycle forums people talk bad about it and it was formulated for bicycles!

    If in doubt read the MSDS, it's all in there...
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  4. #14
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the great post---very helpful!
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  5. #15
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rat View Post
    Not to start a bonfire...
    But, 3 in 1, Singer, Lilly White all have virtually identical ingredients according to their MSDS. In fact, I would be willing to bet that many of them have the same source and are just re-branded. Hoppes lubricating oil is the only true single part distillate I know of; I guess that is why it is a bit more expensive.
    Also, you may see 10W-20 motor oil referenced as a light machine oil, and it is in reality, but it also contains detergents that we do not want on our machine surfaces.
    Interesting post. I must confess I have not looked at the MSDS for the various products. It has been my understanding that 3-in-1 is blended with a penetrant but I could be wrong. I have never seen 10w-20 referenced as light _machine_ oil. Certainly a light motor oil. But yeah those are different.

    As for it's bad rep... It advertises as a _cleaning_ and _anti-corosion_ agent as well as lubrication. It is also owned by the WD-40 company now. That may be where the penetrant charges emerge. WD-40 has been called kerosene in a can. It is not a lubricant as stated. In any event... I would trust oil by the sewing companies over one by WD-40 for my machines. But that's me. As said before OYOM.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

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  6. #16
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    The other question I have about lubrication is the frequency. The older machines like the Singer 221 have oiling intervals of daily and weekly translated to 8 Hr for the head and 40-50 hrs for the bottom. I'd need to watch the video to pin it down. Oiling is a user operation so there are instructions in the use manuals if there is one on line. The other issue worth enforcing is that all one needs is a drop in the right place. Too much oil will result in getting it where you do not want it.

    If one does not have a manual but has an older machine the Singer 221 manuals are all on line. I expect the bearing and oiling requirements are all about the same for the older machines is it is material driven. Pulling one of those manuals up would at least give a clue what to look for.

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