On your webpage when talking about a loop instead of a key ring you mention that the important thing is to get the Flyz as close to the tarp as possible. Why? I understand that sag increases as the attachment point moves further away from the tarp, but with 3:1 leverage to tension the tarp I think it's pretty minimal. Also, sag is something that users of two lines have always dealt with, and it's a non issue if the RL is under the tarp.
Basically just checking to see if I've missed another aspect of this. Was thinking about how to deal w/ skins should I continue using them, and adding D-Ring extenders to attach the Flyz and loop to seemed like an easy solution to provide space needed to bunch them off past the ends of the tarp.
Great work, thanks.
There are a few reasons I like having the attachment point as close to the tarp as possible.
1. On average, tarps have a ridge line length of around 11 ft. At the minimum-recommended distance of 12 feet, that only gives you inches of wiggle room on each side of the tarp. When knots, prusiks, and hardware get wrapped around the anchor point (tree), they become difficult to adjust. Having the "action" right near the tarp, keeps it easier to manipulate.
2. I like to create a "V" with the tarp tie-outs so the hammock suspension doesn't interfere with the tarp. Having the vertex of the "V" as close to the tarp minimizes the interaction between tarp and hammock suspension. I like to split the "V" right at the tarp, especially with longer hangs when the hammock suspension is higher than the tarp suspension.
3. Keeping the hardware connected to the tarp helps make it easier to find and use. With some methods that put all the hardware on the line (particularly prusik knots), it takes some time to find them and adjust them before they are usable. This isn't the top reason, but it's one of those little tips that helps me pitch more efficiently and faster.
On a side note, I don't recommend putting the continuous ridge line under a tarp much any more. After some miserable experiences, I've realized that the line _under_ the tarp acts as a very efficient water seep, allowing water to run down and under the tarp. Drip lines become ineffective on a tarp because you end up dripping the water on the hammock. End tie-outs and ridge lines _above_ the tarp do not have this unfortunate side-effect.
For storm worthiness, a tarp pitched with steep sides is more than effective at shedding snow. Steep sides is also great to avoid water pooling on a tarp during a deluge. Properly pitched with a ridge line running on top, a tarp will be strong enough to weather the storms.
This will cut my tarp ridgeline setup time in half. Where can I get some of those mini biners?
One last question (or tip?) - I was experimenting with this setup yesterday and found it a bit frustrating that when I had to let go of the Flyz end of the tarp to get the line around the tree, the tarp just slid back down the ridgeline out of reach (so in your video it's the left side). I found that by clipping the antenna of the Flyz on the line and giving it a tug it would stay in place long enough for me to deal w/ the line around the tree, and after watching your video it looks like you attempt to do the same (although it does slip slightly). Perhaps just an unmentioned trick, or do you have an alternate tip?
Here is my quick video on using this method.
"Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. Itís the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig
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