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  1. #1
    Senior Member Kyle's Avatar
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    Another "help me hang indoors" thread

    So I want to set a couple points I can hang from indoors, but I've got a couple questions. First, I'm thinking I'm just going to go with those D-rings-on-a-plate dealies (no idea what they're called) that are used for tying down stuff in the beds of trucks and such. Thinking 3.5" lag screws. Also thinking I'll just go into a single 2x4 in the wall rather than a horizontal 2x4 across two or three studs, but I'm more than willing to do the horizontal ones to spread the stress if recommended. I'm only 150lbs, so keep that in mind.

    Any input on the above is much appreciated, and here come the couple questions:

    1) Right now, I have a WBBB, but I also intend to, someday, have a WBRR. About what distance would be ideal for the flexibility of hanging both? Can I use the same distance apart and height up from the floor for both?

    2) Is it best to have the suspension come off the bracket/ring thing at 90° to the wall (so pulling in the same direction as the screws), or at some angle that is not directly parallel to the screws?

    Thanks, y'all!

  2. #2

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    Given your thoughts on how you want to proceed, I would recommend that your attachment points be fairly high on the wall. The closer you are to the top plate the less deflection of the wall stud will occur and the less likely you will be to cause cracking in your wallboard or plaster.

    I don't think you'll need any sort of bracket for your application (using load buckles) the screws should all be loaded mostly in tension (stretching) which should be fine. Try to arrange your fasteners so they are into the meat of the stud and not just catching the edge. Angle them if necessary. Remember that your fasteners need to pass through a thickness of wallboard or plaster to get to the wall stud so allow adequate length. I like to pre-drill for larger fasteners to avoid splitting the wood and sometimes I pass the threads of the fastener across some parafin (candle wax) to lube them up so they drive easier.

    David

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    i hit the ceiling joist w/ screw eyes and had 400 lbs swinging in my tablecloth hammock and am yet to see problems. makes the living room look like a man cave but its works.



    the last post gave great advice. and now mine. lol. o well.

    you can make a mess, just clean it up

  4. #4
    Senior Member ibgary's Avatar
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    I used the setup you referred to. See photo, but I went into the joists, which makes it higher. Being higher you want to space them out farther. No problems at all.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    I've been hanging in a 12x15 room from corner to corner and this is more then enough room to hang an 11 footer. I figured being on the corners of the room and being close to the ceiling joist would offer the greatest support. From the corners out I spanned across 2 studs with a 2x4 and put a eyebolt in the middle of that to hang from. I weight 180 and have seen no issues what so ever, im a tosser and turner so I would think Im putting a fair amount of stress on the wall structure

  6. #6
    Senior Member Kyle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerstone View Post
    I don't think you'll need any sort of bracket for your application (using load buckles) the screws should all be loaded mostly in tension (stretching) which should be fine.David
    So does that mean the suspension should come off the wall parallel to the screws? I was initially thinking something like this was how I was going to do it (please pardon the crude diagram):

    |
    |\
    |. \
    |___\____

    That being the corner of a room with the hammock being the diagonal lines (the period just being a spacer since the forums don't allow multiple spaces). Would that put too much shear stress on the screws?

    Thanks, guys. I'm working with some pretty limited space (and a wife's approval), so going into the ceiling joists probably isn't an option for me since I don't have the kind of room that demands.

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