DIY Whoopie Slings HELP!

[cloudedice]

Are you tapering the end before you attempt the bury? Taper, taper, taper!

The second picture in this thread on how to make Whoopies shows the taper I used on my 1/8" whoopies.

http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=9349

[dammfast]

With 1/8th, I have done it by tapering and adding a small piece of tape and just milking it through. Open up strands where you want to start the bury, Feed the pointy taped end in and start milking. It takes some patience at the start but after the first inch or so you can walk it through pretty easy. As a disclaimer the smaller the rope the need to have the "tools" of the trade become more important. 1/8 is the smallest that I have been able to, or willing to use the tape method, anything smaller and I have to use a wire out of an old telephone cord.

[gmcttr]

We are using 12 strand, 1/8" Amsteel. Should I have gotten the 8 strand 1/8" or even just succombed and gotten the 7/64" stuff? Do the higher strand count lines open up less?

7/64" is the only 8 strand amsteel, the larger sizes are 12 strand and it makes no difference for splicing. Half of the strands are cut for the taper.

The 1/8" you have is good stuff and works even easier than the smaller ropes.

You just have a bit of technique to get worked out.

[Lupus]

Get a number 4 knitting needle and use that to 'open up' the length of your bury. I couldn't get the bury started when I first tried splicing until I did that and tapered the ends. Both help with getting it started.

I can't say enough how strongly I recommend using some sort of tool like a knitting or yarn needle to 'open up' the braid to a size much larger than what is needed to accommodate the line your trying to bury.

[tammons]

I use a doubled over length of .035 SS welding wire probably 8" long finished.
or you can get some SS wire from the hardware store.
Fold a 16" long piece in half and clamp down the bend with some pliars.

The clamped end makes sort of a lock to wedge the amsteel into for a pull.

I folded the other ends over at 90 degrees and taped them together to make it easier to grab.

For a bury, I have some super sharp scissors and cut the end at a slant then wrap a small piece of frosted tape around that end and it makes sort of a cone. I do that after its wedged into the wire end. Pull the tape off after you pull it through.

I actually made a longer one of these about 24" long to pull line through stuff sacks and whatnot.

[Krazyjohnny]

All,

Thank you very much for the tips. We are on the right track now. Knocked out a set of slings in about 30 mins last night. My welding wire I had been using, and causing me much frustration, had a burr in it at the loop bend. So we chalked up that sling as our learning section of rope and practiced using the Loop tool from Dritz. All is good and thanks to you guys.

[gmcttr]

Congrats.

I never had much luck with welding wire either. It always "cracked" at the bend leaving a burr which would snag the amsteel.

[Krazyjohnny]

We could not get the Whoopies to release so we are going back to the dual ring setup.

[OldRagFreeze]

We could not get the Whoopies to release so we are going back to the dual ring setup.

Maybe you should buy a pair of whoopies to help you visualize, and then try to make them later since you have the Amsteel? I bought whoopies from both BIAS and WhoopieSlings and both are great quality and work perfectly. The WhoopieSlings ones are just a bit longer, if that is a concern for you.

[tammons]

We could not get the Whoopies to release so we are going back to the dual ring setup.

Cant imagine why that would be. You have to hold it in the right area when you adjust.

A dual descender ring/strap setup is very simple and I like it.

I have (2) 11' 5/8 mule tape (1800#) straps and they weigh 3.6 oz and my 4 decender rings weigh 1.6 oz so a total of 5.2 oz

I have never tested this mule tape in this configuration though.

1/2" mule tape is good for 1200#