I am pondering making an Underquilt from an old Marmot water resistant down mummy sleeping bag I found at a tag sale. Has anyone tried this successfully? I am thinking to sew first and cut later in order to control the filling, turn the edges to finish, then stitch a ribbon of nylon binding along the edges to run a shock cord through. Would love to hear about trial and error by others before I start. Could also use some advice on measurements. Thanks all.
The general rule is sew two lines and cut between them to control the floaties....
It's been done a few times, though a purpose made quilt is superior...
"Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda
When I first did this I sewed seams parallel to the zipper and cut the zipper off. My bag was rectangular but I imagine if you were to sew two parallel lines down the foot box you could then cut between them and only lose a bit of down.
I've done just this. Was far easier than I expected actually.
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=65288
Thanks. This is helpful. If I can pull it off for 1.5 Lbs, I will go for it. Might consider trying it on an old circa 1980 full length down coat. Just say no to shoulder pads!
I am so pleased with myself. UQ made from Marmot Down bag came out great. I opened the bag and trimmed the zipper teeth off of their own binding, leaving the seam behind them fully intact. This to become the sides of my UQ with no loss of down fluff. The head end of the bag (not a hooded type), all ready had a draw cord with centered toggle in place, so I left it alone. I can pull it into a tight gather with the toggle and it is now the head end of the UQ. I sewed a seam to control fly away above the foot box of the bag, went outdoors, and cut the foot box off so I had a 62 inch quilt. Worked fine. Windy day. Lots of fluff flying everywhere. Lets play confuse the cat. Then I folded over the fabric twice on this foot end and sewed it into a channel for a draw cord. I created a narrow V cut with finished edge in the middle. I then pulled a piece of non stretch para cord through the channel, added a toggle to the middle at the V cut, and secured the ends by sewing them into the channel ends. I created a sewn in 1.5 inch loop of cord beyond the channel ends to act as hanging loops or whatever, just because it looked cool and could serve some later function. Now I have a 60 inch UQ with non stretch draw cords and centered toggles at both ends. As for the sides, I cut 3 inch strips of strong ripstop fabric to 62 inches, (found it at a general fabric store), turn back the ends and sewed them so that the piece is now 62 inches and cannot fray, folded it into a channel with raw edge turned under, pinned it carefully along the two sides where the zippers used to be, making sure to get the pin through the front and back with the ripstop alligned front to back. This took the most effort and patience. Then I sewed. Now I have a channel running the length of both sides. I ran 1/8 shock cord through both. Connected the cords at each end to each other with a knot and a toggle. Finished UQ is 60 inches long, 49 inches wide at the foot end, 52 inches wide at the head end, (was a mummy bag). Tips; use only heavy duty all poly thread, cotton could break down. Attach a round bead to the cord ends to help move them through the channel. Works really well. I hung it for a test run today. Just fine. I have about a 3/4 length tapered down UQ with a waterproof bottom. Probably best for Spring and Fall use. Paid $5 for the bag, another $15 for materials, 4 hours of labor. Whole job went way smoother than I had expected. April, Maryland AT, here I come.
congrats on a great job now lets see some pics, as i am looking at doing the same
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