9 is way to small a 16 or 18 would be better. To check needle to thread size the thread should lay easily in the long grove on the front of the needle and pass threw the eye with out bunching up.
9 is way to small a 16 or 18 would be better. To check needle to thread size the thread should lay easily in the long grove on the front of the needle and pass threw the eye with out bunching up.
The needle I am using now is way bigger than the size 9. I would guess it's around the size you're recommending. I will double check with a new. Thanks again.
"Science, my lad, is made up of mistakes, but they are mistakes which it is useful to make, because they lead little by little to the truth." - Jules Verne
100 = size 16 which may be needed for your thread size, but is not needed for lightweight
nylon. More than you wanted to know about needles.
I typically use a size 11 sharp point needle with Gutermanns Mara 70 or Sew All thread for 1.1-1.9 oz ripstop.
Nice stiches, but why are they so straight?
"Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda
Haha thanks. I'm just trying to get the tension right. Gonna try some new thread and needle.Originally Posted by JohnSawyer
Nice stiches, but why are they so straight?
+1 on the Guttermans thread. Thread brand and size is a huge variable in getting the tension correct. When you change thread, just expect to have to adjust things again. Always test your tension on the same fabric as your project.
Ramblinrev's bobbin tension method is a great technique. A 16th turn on the bobbin screw can make a huge difference. Most thread tension issues can be fixed with the top tension only.
If you're the kind of person who needs to know more than is necessary, check out this thread which has some links about thread size. It's only slightly off topic from your original question, but will help you understand more about the product you depend on to hold your gear together. http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=54542
In the interest of full disclosure, that's not mine. I forget who I glommed it from but it was in an exchange about adjusting the bobbin tension. That poster was an "adjust it often" advocate. While I take a "don't touch" approach. Just goes to show you learn from people you don't agree with.
If you are still having trouble with the tension after all the good advice that has cropped up here, you may be looking as a mechanical problem such as corrosion on the tension plates or a weak/broken spring some where in the system. That's something I can't help with as I leave all that reapir stuff to my machine mechanic.
But just for kicks and giggles, make sure your top thread is threaded correctly and completely. Set you top tension about midway. Raise the presser foot and pull the tail of the thread through the needle. It should flow smoothly and easily. Now lower the presser foot and pull as before. The difference _should_ be readily apparent. If it is not, you have a mechanical problem. My advice advice is always take it to a shop for expert repair, but there are some excellent repair resources on the forums.
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn
We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series
Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies
Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint
Well I think I finally got my injecting down. With a few minor tweaks and Ramblinrev's bobbin advice, my thread is very close to being even on both sides. Still need a little practice keep lines straight. Thanks for everyone's help!
First off, these are the instructions on how to properly thread the injector. I just took out step eight.
uploadfromtaptalk1359133075057.jpg
Next, as simple as making the thread unravel over the top of the spool, rather than under made tons of difference for me.
uploadfromtaptalk1359133218579.jpg
Results...
Under
uploadfromtaptalk1359133246839.jpg
Top
uploadfromtaptalk1359133325344.jpg
Edit:
I only threaded it through the needle..
You really should put step eight back in. First, that step helps guide the thread properly into the needle eye. If you don't slip the thread behind thst guide you run the very real risk of having it loop and tangle. There is a groove in the needle shaft that helps the thread make the proper loop below the plate. This guide helps keep the thread aligned with that groove.
It also has an effect on the total tension of the system. Each bend and twist in the threading pattern has a reason for being there.
Regarding the spool position, be aware of what kind of spool you have. Some brands and older spools have a slit in the rim of the spool to hold the loose end of the thread Always place that slit at the rear end of a horizontal spool holder. That prevents the thread from getting caught in the slit as it winds off. Your spool is a newer style so that is less of a factor. I bring it up because you might find yourself with an old style spool at some point.
Stitches are looking good. Glad we were able to help.
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn
We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series
Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies
Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint
Looking good. One line of stitching in a rolled hem is all you need, so you can cut your sewing time and thread usage in half.
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