The toggles being used now are just the start. If you look at the pictures the length on the toggles can be reduced and I sure will be. In theory a 1" wood dowel piece will work if the hole is drilled slightly off center as the wrap is right next to the center hole. actually toggle could be smaller than an inch. Potential
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Bugs: You don't need me to make you look like a fool.
Yosemite Sam: Yer deerrrnnn right I don't!
Here's how to do that. http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...hlight=brummel
The sliding aspect of the toggle gives microadjustability (up or down ) more easily than the whoopie, AND you can adjust it under load to a greater degree than the whoopie, but you still have to support much of the load while you're making the adjustment.
As mentioned before, the smaller the HITT the stronger the toggle. (nice use of the new acronym Timberrr)
Another thought. The line wrapped around the toggle is trying to compress the perimeter of the toggle. That is, it's trying to make a 1" diameter toggle into a 3/4" diameter toggle. Therefore, wouldn't a tube be more resistant, i.e. stronger, than a solid toggle? Not to mention lighter.
Engineers, what say ye?
Last edited by Timberrr; 02-01-2013 at 11:43.
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So many trees, so little time...
Setup MicroRope - adjustable aluminum slides
looking from 03:00
Are we running from the original because of a single failure? A failure that could easily have been caused by an existing flaw or damage? Not ready to give up on the dowel just yet...that elegant simplicity is just too seductive.
Don't run! Just start out with a cushion.
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It's worth noting, too, that the use of Dynaglide for hammock suspensions has always been regarded as pushing the envelope. Flirting with the edge is not without risks.
How about using the handle of the pull cord of the lawn mower, chain saw, etc.
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With webbing and a MSH, the toggle tends to stay aligned perpendicular to the suspension.
Last edited by gmcttr; 02-01-2013 at 13:32.