A sliding toggle (Yes, another suspension idea)

[Shewie]

Neat idea

Aren't you restricting the minimum length to the junction where the amsteel larksheads onto the tree strap? A couple of times I've had to slide my marlin toggle or Dutch Buckle right up the the tree, I can see this being a problem unless you can lose the excess tree strap by wrapping a few times.

I guess the key is matching the tree strap to the trees you're going to encounter

[Bonepile]

What I learned as a water knot is basically taking a doubled portion of the strap and tying an overhand knot, leaving the loop hanging out if that makes sense.

I'll give that a try and see how hard it is to untie after it's been loaded with weight overnight.

[Wildknot]

Those looks like they are are for splicing two pieces together or stopper knots but don't form a loop. I guess I'll just experiment.

I would suggest a figure 8 loop. Check out animatedknots.com

[Bonepile]

I would suggest a figure 8 loop. Check out animatedknots.com

Thanks Wildknot, That looks like what I need, will see how it works with straps. The problem I've had with straps is when the knots get overly tight they can be difficult to untie.

[SurvivalStudent]

For a knot to tie the amsteel to the webbing how about a double sheet bend? It can be tied at any point up your webbing.. or as your amsteel is already looped, tie your marlin spike hitch and loop the amsteel over..

Maybe im looking at all this wrong but one point made earlier is the concern that the continuous loop at the hammock it in a tight radius around the ops suporting toggle.. this method is reducing weight and cost.. the tree straps can be shorter so cant you take some of that excess tree strap and make a continuous loop with that? Alternatively larks foot the amsteel continuous loop to the toggle, removing any tight compression points from this loop..

My concern on this is where the main suporting line comes from the tree strap, through the toggle and turns sharply at 90* around the toggle giving a tight compression point.. would a simple countersink fix this? Would that work on pipe?


Just my thoughts, what do you think? Am I missing the point?

[Timberrr]

... the main suporting line comes from the tree strap, through the toggle and turns sharply at 90* around the toggle giving a tight compression point.. would a simple countersink fix this? Would that work on pipe?

That's what I was thinking of but haven't tried it yet.
Note: PVC is very soft and won't offer much resistance to your power drill. Use a depth limiter if you can or just be very careful you don't go right through the PVC and drill the hole bigger with your countersink bit.

[stevebo]

Cool idea---very origional! Would it work on a bridge hammock?

[oldgringo]

That's what I was thinking of but haven't tried it yet.
Note: PVC is very soft and won't offer much resistance to your power drill. Use a depth limiter if you can or just be very careful you don't go right through the PVC and drill the hole bigger with your countersink bit.

Just use a chainsaw file to relieve that sharp edge where the Amsteel rides. No need to countersink the entire hole.

[Jazilla]

Why not a locked Brummell to attach to the tree strap. Attached via larks head knot

[Timberrr]

Why not a locked Brummell to attach to the tree strap. Attached via larks head knot

That's exactly what we did on our initial test pair - plus one. We did a locked brummel on each end (a/k/a a dogbone).
Gumbo and I made them by starting with a piece of amsteel. 1) Put a locked brummel on one end. 2) Slide the toggle on. 3) Put a locked brummel on the free end.
If you're using a straight toggle then it makes no difference which end goes toward the tree. If you make it with a T-toggle then the bottom of the 'T' should point to the tree and that end should have the brummel. (the other end could just be a reversed bury to keep the toggle from slipping off)