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  1. #1
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    Stitching vs strength

    As I was thinking a little bit ago I may know of a source or extremely cheap/free nylon. The only problem with the nylon is it has been used for other purposes in the past but, how do you say, it doesn't cut the mustard anymore for what it's original intention was. I'm not sure how good any of it might be it would depend on what it failed the test for, pull strength or porousity.

    The one thing I can think may pose a problem is it has been stitched. I keep trying to remember how they cut the fabric, length-wise or width-wise, to know if I would be getting full 5 foot wide pieces that are shorter than a full hammock/tarp, etc or if both directions would be shorter.

    How much does stitching together two pieces of nylon reduce its overall strength?

    I know the material would work great for a tarp and should work great for a pack as well. I really question if you could use it for a hammock or not. I could end up getting it in almost any color. Granted it would still be finding someone with it laying around who is looking to get rid of it.

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  2. #2
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    well if it would work good for a tarp, then it might not for a hammock. you want the hammock breathable in the warmer months, you could do a non breathable hammock in the cold though. stitching layers together is probably not too good though. the parachute hammock companies do it, but their seams aren't under the body as much and run head to toe. not side to side.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    what was the original intention... I would want to know that before I started hanging my weight on it. If the fabric as been stressed beyond it's saftey point then I would need to take that into consideration.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

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  4. #4
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    I know the original intention, hence why I was asking. You can find 100's of yards of fabric in old hot air balloons. When the top burns out of the ballon to it won't pass the porousity tests no more they can replace a few rows of the balloon and keep it going. At some point the balloon will get old enough that it the heat it is forced to withstand will work its way down the balloon and it just doesn't make sense to keep on replacing any further down. The bottom part of the balloon see very little heat so its porousity is always the best. I know some of the guys keep old envelopes laying around until they finally have no more room for them and then they junk them. Like I said 100s of yards of fabric, some of it maybe good some of it may not. It would simply be a matter of testing.

    I just didn't know what to think in the case of where the separate cells were sewn together how well that would stand up to being laid in. For a tarp the bottom part of the envelop would be great. Granted you would have some cutting and sewing to do to get something that didn't want to form a circle around you.

  5. #5
    Senior Member sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Look at how ENO hammocks are made - if you can get a 10' length that is at the least, 3' wide, preferably 4', you can build hammocks that way, adding 12" or 8" strips on either side of the main body. What you never want is a seam where any significant body weight will be. Stay away from seams going across the width of the hammock body.

    Parachute material is pretty rugged, it has to be. It's definitely worth trying. Use flat felled seams along the length of the strips you add, with three top stitches to really give it the strength you want and need.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    It sounds to me like it would be worth playing with. Seams across the width of the hammock are extremely problematic. But seams down the length are frequently done. In fact the Hennessey bottom entry is a slit down the length of the fabric and it is not even sewn up. A good flat felled seam should be fine in that regard.

    I put a BEEP (bottom entry/exit portal) in a dual-mode bridge and the slit presented no structural issues at all in the gathered end mode.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

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  7. #7
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    Sleeping Bag Cover by Outdoor Research

    I own a Sleeping Bag Cover by O.R. ... Which is no longer made.
    Looking to add some sort of an full length Zipper, or Snaps to make it easier to get in, and out of it.
    Basically would like to put it to used for colder-nights.

    Little in put:
    #1. This cover can be used with a tent, under a tarp, or alone.
    Plus, it adds serveral degrees worth of warmth...
    #2. The upper part is WindShear fabic and totally windproof,
    highly water resistant, Extremely Breathable.
    #3. Hydroseal 200 coated floor which is waterproof.
    #4. No-see-um netting snap back when not need.
    #5. End opening zipper.
    #6. Sleeping Pad Straps..

    This looks close to the O.R. ( Aurora Bivy )...
    http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/aurora_bivy.html

    Would appreciate any input on making this product workable.
    Thank You

    From:
    Old Hermit
    Last edited by Old Hermit; 01-22-2009 at 23:08.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    if the zipper is set into a seam it could be a fairly easy installation. Check the video directory. I did a vid on setting zippers.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

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