Locking Brummel Continuous Loop Tutorial

[SnarkyJosh]

I'm assuming that you leave it as a figure 8 because, if you were to pull one side all the way though, it would leave a hole in the line that would be twisted inside out. So, when you open up the hole initially, couldn't you just feed one end though to make it start off inside out? Kind of like when you make a locked brummel with only one end of the line available.

[PrisonerOfGravity]

if you were to pull one side all the way though, it would leave a hole in the line that would be twisted inside out. So, when you open up the hole initially, couldn't you just feed one end though to make it start off inside out?

If you pull one side through, it does twists the hole, and as you say, pre-twisting the hole would likely solve that particular problem. But, as it is pulls through, the 'lock' of the locked brummel is getting undone, and you end up with a regular bury splice (with or without twist). Nothing wrong with that, but it's a different animal, and this would be a very roundabout way to get there.

[SnarkyJosh]

Ah, I understand. I think I can live with the shape so that I can have the locking effect. Good deal. I'll have to try this when I get home.

[gmcttr]

Very innovative.

FWIW...lock stitching per Samson's spec's preserves the "O" while solving the perceived problem.

[dstars]

Check out the continuous loop tutorial by Opie in the suspensions category. Doing in that way eliminates the figure "8".

[SilvrSurfr]

Check out the continuous loop tutorial by Opie in the suspensions category. Doing in that way eliminates the figure "8".

I do all my continuous loops with Opie's pictoral and have yet to have a problem.

Very innovative.
FWIW...lock stitching per Samson's spec's preserves the "O" while solving the perceived problem.

I also use locking stitches on all my continuous loops. I might have to read this thread about twenty more times to understand the perceived problem that this technique solves.

[DemostiX]

Very innovative.

FWIW...lock stitching per Samson's spec's preserves the "O" while solving the perceived problem.

Agree. This is also an opportunity to gain some familiarity with needle and thread, hand sewing. You're actually creating some good, which is not often true when just practicing drills; the looks don't matter so long as you execute. And you can use the same (heavy) thread to whip the end of the constrictor if you like, solving that issue, too.

I'm serious about the above. Compared to have NO experience with a hand-held needle and thread, the advance in skill from idly lock-stitching the many eyes on cordage here was beneficial.

On the other hand: That little adjustable eye from the Figure 8 could be handy to hold the loop in place until a load is attached, especially if your complete kit is festooned with stopper knots, hooks, or buttons to close the eyes over.

Or do both.

[Roadrunnr72]

The way this is being used, it doesn't sound like a true locked Brummel. If your able to slide the two lines, and change the size of the loops, then it's not locked. I have made and used several continuous loops and have never had a failure or even a slip. I have not sewed mine, but may start doing so in the future............RR

[DemostiX]

TI have made and used several continuous loops and have never had a failure or even a slip. I have not sewed mine, but may start doing so in the future............RR

For fun, I have some ultra-light 1.0mm braided polyester cord for use as guy lines, Crazy light, with a BS estimated at 75lb /30kg, and easy to splice with a darning needle.

Thing is: Seemingly no matter how long the bury, even out to 4", 100 times the diameter, it is possible to (gently) pull an eye splice apart. So, stitching makes all the difference.

[gmcttr]

The way this is being used, it doesn't sound like a true locked Brummel. If your able to slide the two lines...then it's not locked....

I believe the locked brummel is on the non-sliding leg of the 8. The sliding leg goes right through the center of the lock.