So I made 2 TQs for me and my wife the other day. It was my first try at this and so far I am pretty happy with the results. I will explain the best I can, on how I did everything. Please bare with me on the photos be cause I used black nylon so it can be a bit hard to make out certain things.
So I wanted a TQ that would get me down to 0°F temps. So I bought 32oz of down from Wilderness Logistics and some 1.1 Black Ripstop Nylon. Thanks again Marty, great job on packaging it in easy to use 1oz bags.
I used 16oz of Down for each TQ.
The first thing I did is find out what size of a TQ would work for me. Playing around with my sleeping bag and some blankets I figured out that, 56" wide at the head-end and 52" wide at the foot end with 74" of total length, works for me. Here is an illustration of the pattern I used. I decided to use a 5.5" baffle width for the top half and a 4.5" baffle width for the bottom half of the TQ. Reason? Well, I figured since the first thing that always gets cold in a hammock, for me, is my legs and feet. So with this, I decided to use smaller baffles at the foot end and still use the same amount of down per chamber; thus, the bottom half of the TQ has more down per Square Inch than the top half. My logic could be off but I figured, what the heck, ill try it anyways.
The Foot box was 12" x 13". I decided on this side because the bottom of the TQ will be wrapped around this panel so I wanted the perimeter of the foot-box to be equal to the length of the finished length for the TQ foot end. The Foot end is 52" and will be 50" after thread injecting and filling with down so to make a foot box equal to that, I decided to go with 12" x 13". If you add up the perimeter of the foot box it equals 50". 12+12+13+13 equals 50.
The picture below shows how I marked my baffles out. Notice how the top half is larger than the bottom half for baffle size. Don't forget to Double this process because you need to pieces of fabric. One for the outside and one for the inside of the TQ.
Ok now that the fabric is tapered from 56" wide at the top to 52" wide at the base and the top half is marked for 5.5" baffle widths and the bottom half is marked for 4.5" baffle widths, its time to cut the NoseeUm Mesh for the baffle walls.
I decided to go with 2" high baffle walls so I cut my mesh 3" for 0.5" seam allowance on each side. I thread injected all the baffle walls to the first side of the TQ shown below.
After pinning and thread injecting the NoSeeUm Mesh netting to the first side, I then began pinning it to the other side of the TQ. Pinning ahead of time insures you dont make a mistake when you begin to thread inject. I made the mistake of putting the two sides together backwards the first time and having to cut it off and start over. I learned from other guides that you can roll each side of the TQ up to make it fit better into the Thread Injector.
After finishing the baffle walls, I then closed up 3 of the 4 sides by simply just thread injecting the edges together and to keep the baffles sealed up, I thread injected right over the baffle wall. This was the simplest I could think of for sealing up the baffles at the sides. I know some people like to stitch up the side of the baffle wall with one side of the TQ to give it a nice square look but I wanted to keep things simple yet effective.
I decided I wanted to add a Heat Arrestor for the Top part of the TQ. Basically this is just a fleece blanket cut to about 16" by the width of the TQ and thread injected on 3 sides. The top and 2 sides. I left the end towards the footend of the hammock unattached so that when the TQ is laying on top of me, if there is any parts where the TQ is not snug against me, the Fleece will hang down and close the gap sealing in the heat. I got the Fleece blanket from walmart for $5.
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