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  1. #11
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    I've bent more of those nasty little things than I can count. IMHO they are worthless TYON. YMMV If you have trouble I find a run of the end of the thread through a bit of beeswax does the trick. Stiffens the thread and privides a bit of slip. Snip through the beeswax at an angle. The thread will slide right through. Comparatively speaking.
    Yes, there are other threaders, too.

    Once you learn to treat these right, they tend to last much longer. I'll agree that can take some time, so I would try to buy a bunch for closer to the penny they cost to make than the $1.00 a store will prefer to charge.

    I'm sure RR would agree, though, that the best solution is not to use a larger-gauge needle. (But truth to tell, "embroidery" needles have longer eyes for the same given gauge.
    Last edited by DemostiX; 06-28-2013 at 00:36. Reason: gauge

  2. #12
    Senior Member GT's Avatar
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    It depends on the size thread you're using too. Tec69 is common and a #16-18 needle and probably would be the smallest thread I would use for a hammock. I generally use tec91 with a #18 and sometimes #21 needle. depending on how many layers and how stiff the material is that I'm going through.
    The short of the long is, I think you'll be ok with a #18 needle and some coats polyester upholstery thread.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemostiX View Post
    I'm sure RR would agree, though, that the best solution is not to use a larger-guage needle. (But truth to tell, "embroidery" needles have longer eyes for the same given guage.
    Well... while I would agree with that assessment for OCD sticklers, or Type A perfectionists, or for commercial manufacturing use personally I use a big needle no matter what because I am none of the above. I honestly don't think it makes as much difference as others think it does. But then, I'm sewing for myself and if it doesn't bother me I don't feel the need to correct it. By the same token, on the rare occasion when I make something I need people to admire, I can be as picky and futsy as the next guy.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

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  4. #14
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    If you (general you, not the OP) are having trouble threading a needle try any and all of these:

    Put on some reading glasses... or use a small magnifying glass, the thread really will fit through the hole if you can see where you're aiming it!!

    Cut the thread at a 45% angle - seriously, it makes a difference.

    Apply a small amount of spit - it will work just as well as wax and it dries without leaving a wax build-up in your machine.

    Oh and a well lit sewing area is a must as well. I can tell the difference between threading needles on the Singer that has a built in lamp and on the Juki serger that does not.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Old Boot View Post
    Apply a small amount of spit - it will work just as well as wax and it dries without leaving a wax build-up in your machine.
    I used to do this but quickly fell out of the habit. It is probably not as much of a problem with polyester thread but the water in the spit can cause the thread fibers to swell, actually making it more difficult to thread a needle. Given that I am of the age that polyester thread was not around for a good share of my life, I just don't do it any more. As far as a wax build up is concerned, the swipe through the beeswax and subsequent wipe with my fingers leaves no residue to scrape off on the needle. I've watched for that and _for me_ it's not a problem. Plus, after I cut the thread to roughly 45* there's only about half inch of waxed thread left.

    As always, I'm not saying Old Boot is wrong. Spit is an age old technique. I'm just saying, like everything else, there may be a downside. TYON YMMV

    Edit: One more tip... don't try to thread the needle with more than 1/4 - 1/2" of thread sticking out of your fingers. Any thing more than that and the thread will be all sloppy limp and bend before it goes through the eye. All you need is just a short little stub that stays stiff as you guide it through.
    Last edited by Ramblinrev; 06-28-2013 at 08:14.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

  6. #16
    Senior Member GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemostiX View Post
    Often a larger hole is not damaging. But the most consistent and best stitches come from matching the thread to the needle size and its eye. (No, not the smallest eye. The right size will be about 2.5 times the thread diameter, but go elsewhere for guidance.)

    If you can't thread the eye of the right, smaller, needle, you need a supply of these somewhat fragile devices. Actually, we all need them. Wire tip goes through the needle eye. Continue insertion. Put thread in wire loop. Pull wire loop back out of the eye.



    More here:

    http://www.google.com/imgres?client=...10&tx=35&ty=59
    I usually just spend 1/2 hour stabbing the thread towards a shiny blur above the foot and about two inches long until it goes thru a hole. I have to keep reminding myself though, that on my Global ZZ machine the hole in the needle faces me. And on all the others the hole is on the side.

  7. #17
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    Re: DIY Hammock Sewing Settings....?

    When I picked up my sewing machine after I got it serviced the nice lady showed me a tip for threading the needle. If you put a light colored piece if fabric behind the needle it makes it easier to see the hole. The issue I have is once I get it through, about 1/2 the time I pull it out. It just takes a lot of scraps and trail and error to get used to your machine.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sploiz View Post
    once I get it through, about 1/2 the time I pull it out.
    You probably have oily fingers. That will make the thread stick to the fingers instead of leaving cleanly. Keep a small supply of talc and use it _sparingly_ when you threading. Do _not_ use it right at the machine as you don't want to get inside. I keep my talc supply in a travel soad dish. I put the pouder in an infant sock. My youngest is 22 which gives you some idea of how long I have used that sock. I think I have replenished once in that time. You don't need much. Just enough to cut the oils on your fingers.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

  9. #19
    Senior Member ToHa's Avatar
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    Any suggestion for tension setting when using 1.6 ripstop for a hammock? Or is the tension setting configured for the individual sewing machine?
    I am using a BIAS Weight Weenie Micro as my template for my hammock. I enjoy the lay and am looking to reproduce an 11' DIY Version.
    Also, which side of the ripstop should I face out. There are two diff end sides, one smoother & shinier. Then there's the duller, calendared side. Which side should be to my back, and which to the ground...?
    Last edited by ToHa; 06-30-2013 at 12:54.

  10. #20
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToHa View Post
    Any suggestion for tension setting when using 1.6 ripstop for a hammock? Or is the tension setting configured for the individual sewing machine?
    I am using a BIAS Weight Weenie Micro as my template for my hammock. I enjoy the lay and am looking to reproduce an 11' DIY Version.
    Also, which side of the ripstop should I face out. There are two diff end sides, one smoother & shinier. Then there's the duller, calendared side. Which side should be to my back, and which to the ground...?
    The tension needs will vary by the fabric and number of layers, and even the thread used to some degree...

    The trick here is to get some scrap fabric and play. Too little tension and the bottom thread is loose, too much and you can feel the thread loops on the top side with a fingernail... Ideally, the thread should cross in the middle...

    Like everything, It just takes a little practice. And don't stress too much on precise tension, there's a little bit of a range that works...
    "Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda


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