DIY Hammock Sewing Settings....?

[ToHa]

I'm about to begin my first DIY gathered end hammock. I'm using 1.6oz ripstop from DIY Gear Supply. Gonna be a single layer, prolly 10 or 11 ft long & 60" wide. I have an old Singer Athena 2000 sewing machine (took a sewing class tonight) and have a few questions...
1. What would be the correct needle size?
2. What stitch width setting should be used for the hems and channels?
3. What stitch length setting should be used?
4. Is a zigzag or straight stitch better for the hems and/or channels?
(I think the sewing class created more questions than answers)......

I've seen plenty of vids and posts, but don't recall reading or seeing this information. I plan on practicing on spare fabric before attempting the real deal, and would appreciate any & all pointers y'all might have.

Thanks

[Lost_Biker]

I use a 14 or 15 on my Singer 201 so I can thread the thing.
I use 6-8 stitches per inch on everything I sew.
Straight stitch on everything from hammocks to quilts - it only does straight stitch.
Mine has no width adjustment.

[The Old Boot]

yeah, I can see where the sewing class has you with more questions...

Sewing needles come in sharp and ball point as well as a heavy duty for sewing denim and various sizes for type of material.

For sewing sil and ripstop you want a 'sharp' and while you could use a size 9 or 11, you would have trouble getting the heavier Guttermann thread through the hole. Go for a 14 so you won't have any problems.

I think what you're asking in 2 is the hem width not 'stitch width' since a straight stitch doesn't have a width adjustment. You want a hem width that is comfortable for you to work with and big enough that if you're running cord through it, it's got enough room. For hemming the sides of a tarp or gathered end hammock, folding the hem over 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch is plenty and still within reasonable size. If you're hemming the end channel, turn the fabric in a 3/8" then an inch to make the channel and sew an 2 rows of stitching, one an 1/8" from the folded edge and the second row and 1/8" from the 1st row.

Stitch lengths - 6 is considered 'basting' - something that can be ripped out easily if you are testing something. 8 to 10 is a good length for strong sewing on sil etc.

Zig-zag can be used to create bar tacks and to edge fabrics that tend to fray if they're being left exposed.

Take some fabric scraps and practice, practice and practice some more. Also play with stitch lengths and hemming techniques until you're comfortable.

Oh and don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of each stitch line to lock in the stitching!!

[XTrekker]

I use a 14 or 15 on my Singer 201 so I can thread the thing.

Same here...I have the exact same troubles...Think I am going blind.

[namnat]

+1 on what Old Boot said

[Boston]

Straight stitches always, unless the seam is designed to stretch, then use a zig-zag (I don't know of any typical applications for this in a hammock/tarp. Possibly could be used in an underquilt)

I have been using 2mm stitch length. I may bump it up to 2.5-3mm on my next projects. Since we're sewing straight stitches there's no stitch width adjustment.

Needle size, use a 90/14 or 80/12. Smaller number makes a smaller hole. Use sharp needles. Ball points are meant for knit fabrics, not woven.

Thread: Use gutterman thread. Tera, which is very strong, or Mara "sew all" are recommended. I used Coats and Clark outdoors thread which is a very large gauge, comparatively, and had all sorts of problems with stitch consistency until i switched to Tera.

[Ramblinrev]

I had an Athena 2000 back in the day. They are reasonably good machines with one exception and you really need to be aware of this. At least on some models the feed dogs were smooth rubberized plates. The rubber gets brittle and breaks off leave the feed dogs absolutely useless. I've never been more frusterpated in my life. At that point I was not aware they were designed and engineered to be replaceable. It's a fairly cheap fix if you can get the after market parts for them. If you have trouble with the fabric feeding, check the feed dogs for wear.

[DemostiX]

I use a 14 or 15 on my Singer 201 so I can thread the thing.

Often a larger hole is not damaging. But the most consistent and best stitches come from matching the thread to the needle size and its eye. (No, not the smallest eye. The right size will be about 2.5 times the thread diameter, but go elsewhere for guidance.)

If you can't thread the eye of the right, smaller, needle, you need a supply of these somewhat fragile devices. Actually, we all need them. Wire tip goes through the needle eye. Continue insertion. Put thread in wire loop. Pull wire loop back out of the eye.



More here:

http://www.google.com/imgres?client=...10&tx=35&ty=59

[Ramblinrev]

I've bent more of those nasty little things than I can count. IMHO they are worthless TYON. YMMV If you have trouble I find a run of the end of the thread through a bit of beeswax does the trick. Stiffens the thread and privides a bit of slip. Snip through the beeswax at an angle. The thread will slide right through. Comparatively speaking.

[ToHa]

Wow! I realize I still have much to learn. And that's half the fun for me.
Thank you all for your pointers and suggestions. I am really excited to start practicing.
I'd gratefully take more tips if you or anyone else has any for a first timer.
Oh, and Ramblinrev, my dogs are still running. Thanks for the tip!