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  1. #11
    New Member Bentheboatman's Avatar
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    You must taper! Any sudden change of direction for dyneema fibers causes excessive stress, and that is where it will break. Taper smooths out the stress and makes it constantly strong. In fact using a tapered 3.5 fid (long) bury eye splice with a thimble will give you a piece of cord that is as strong as it is rated. (1 fid length is 21x diameter of rope). Also never put a knot in your dyneema check out this linkhttp://blip.tv/a-fuerza-de-plafon/dy...-tests-4509845

  2. #12
    Senior Member iRokk's Avatar
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    These are just guy lines, and as I am using Zing-It, I'm not too worried about the loss in strength by a locked brummel, unless I should be? How much of a loss are we talkin'? I ended up tapering about an inch, plus 2 inches of bury on top of that. 2 down, 2-4 to go. What length lines are people using for the doors of your superflies? I am doing 7 for the sides, that way I have enough to hang in porch mode from either side.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member Floridahanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruinfan View Post
    i use electric guitar string too. good stuff. bury length I always go long because I dunno if length is measured after bury happens. I dunno why but i lose length somewhere. dunno if that makes sense. taper n milk for sure tho
    You lose your length to the inside cord stretching out the outside cord. By increasing the diameter of the outside to allow room for the bury, you also lose length since the cord cannot constrict all the way down.

    For the OP, a locked brummel will be just fine for your guy lines. Locked brummels are used all the time for suspension in "dogbones", UCR's(utility constrictor ropes)(instead of whoopie slings), and other uses. The limited forces on guy lines are no problem for your use.
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  4. #14
    Senior Member Jcavenagh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bulldogdvm View Post
    I use a $3 loop turner from wal-mart for all my splicing of amsteel and zing-it! Works great for me, I keep one in my pack with extra line for on the trail emergency fixes.
    You have a loop turner that fits in 1.75mm Zing-It?? I have looked high and low for that. Do you still have the package showing what mfr & model#?
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  5. #15
    Senior Member Jcavenagh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iRokk View Post
    These are just guy lines, and as I am using Zing-It, I'm not too worried about the loss in strength by a locked brummel, unless I should be? How much of a loss are we talkin'? I ended up tapering about an inch, plus 2 inches of bury on top of that. 2 down, 2-4 to go. What length lines are people using for the doors of your superflies? I am doing 7 for the sides, that way I have enough to hang in porch mode from either side.
    I prefer a slightly longer bury on the longer pieces, maybe 3-4 inches including 1 - 1.5 inch taper. 7' lines will be just fine. If you're talking about just the doors, you could even go 3-4' and then just tie the doors up when going porch mode and use the main tie out lines. See an example at 3:45 of the vieo here https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ad.php?t=51801
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  6. #16
    kayak karl's Avatar
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    i wear these
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  7. #17
    Senior Member iRokk's Avatar
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    I ended up doing a 3" bury including the tapers, so it sounds like I'm in the good range! Floridahanger, I did the locked brummels on my whoopies, I just wasn't sure how much tension would eventually get put on these guy lines, especially if I am in a storm, ya know?

    Jcavenagh that sounds about perfect. I have a feeling the doors will be open or it will be in porch mode a lot here in CA

    Kayak karl, I was wishing I had those while I was working! I just got the guylines for the 4 corners done today and called it quits. I am waiting for my Stingerz to get here to do my ridgeline, and my doors and panel pulls can wait until I have energy again

  8. #18
    New Member Bentheboatman's Avatar
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    40% loss when using a locked brummel. And negligible loss when using a long bury splice. But, on guy lines, its unlikely you will get that much force, I mostly use the locked brummel too as it is quicker. I have made up some zing it as a structural ridgeline and that is a bit more load critical. I'm actually a bit worried because I did use the brummel splice - I am now procrastinating over reworking it.

  9. #19
    New Member Bentheboatman's Avatar
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    The other thing I'm procrastinating about is that I'm supposed to be doing my accounts, but much rather would be thinking about hammocks.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bentheboatman View Post
    40% loss when using a locked brummel. And negligible loss when using a long bury splice...
    This is a much greater loss than any other info I've seen on the locked brummel. Can you provide references? Thanks

    Here is a thread where Samson Rope was asked about the breaking strength of whoopie slings made with a locked brummel....https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ad.php?t=12319

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