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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by bukkit View Post
    It doesn't appear to be a problem with the down-lovers in this thread, but I'm curious as to why...

    I remember hearing that down lost its loft when compressed... is that not the case?
    It is the case - and when it is not compressed any longer, it springs right up like the lofty wonder it is, for years longer than synthetic will.

    Sure, if you keep the quilt compressed forever, it'll wreck down - but for those of us who lovingly hang the quilts in the closet and let them have the run of the back seat on the way to the trailhead.... naw.

    What you do not want is compressed down when you are actively trying to stay warm. In this case, compression is a bad thing.

  2. #22
    2Questions's Avatar
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    I might add that down's longevity has a lot to do with keeping it clean too. Body oils, sweat, and just plain ole dirt can cause down to clump and loose its loft. I have an old, old (Boy Scout days) down bag (probably 650 fill) and after a good washing last year, it plumped up to its original loft and will probably last another 25 years. Many are afraid to wash their down bags...don't be. With the down detergents that are out nowadays, some say wash it every year! Now there is a trick to washing and drying it correctly. Doing it wrong can screw them out royally.
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  3. #23
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2Questions View Post
    Now there is a trick to washing and drying it correctly.
    Do you have a video?
    "We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
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  4. #24
    Senior Member Cannibal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    Do you have a video?
    The Jacks have good instructions on their site, but basically you want to use a front loading washer. The 'trick' is being extremely careful when taking it out of the washer. The down gets heavy and the weight will tear the baffles (which is why you don't want to use a top loader). I generally lightly 'wad' up my quilt inside the washing machine, then lift the whole ball of quilt to transfer to the dryer.
    Trust nobody!

  5. #25
    New Member bukkit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannibal View Post
    The Jacks have good instructions on their site, but basically you want to use a front loading washer. The 'trick' is being extremely careful when taking it out of the washer. The down gets heavy and the weight will tear the baffles (which is why you don't want to use a top loader). I generally lightly 'wad' up my quilt inside the washing machine, then lift the whole ball of quilt to transfer to the dryer.
    Maybe wash it inside a pillow case? I know that works for some other "handle with care" items...

    This thread has been good stuff for me; I'm trying to figure out what to do for my UQ for this year's season, as my budget is dwindling.

  6. #26
    Senior Member animalcontrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    Do you have a video?
    Another option I use (I'm too cheap to pay to use a front loader)...
    Fill the bathtub with warm water and a good down soap (Nikwax etc)...work the soapy water through out the item being washed (this can be difficult if has a DWR coating) do NOT twist or wring the item, just fold it over and compress and release...repeat until completely saturated...soak for 30-45 minutes...rinse out throughly (again do NOT twist or wring) until all soap is gone...fold over and compress until you can't get anymore water out...place as a single layer in a top loading washing machine (I transport it folded in a laundry basket) and run on the "spin" cycle. This will remove nearly all the water. Put item in dryer on low heat with 4-5 tennis balls for 1-2 hours. (check frequently to make sure it is not too hot)
    Items will regain all the lost loft (and smell nice too!)
    Or just follow the link to JRB website (in Cannibal's thread) and read their method for hand washing! Sorry to duplicate....
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  7. #27
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    hmmmmmmm ... I just read some of the equipment lists for the NOLS courses.

    For the Sonoran desert they recommend either down or synthetic.

    All the others (a small sample of the Rockies, the Teton Valley and 2 in the southwest), they recommend synthetic.

    I have read from people who have taken NOLS courses that they will flat out not allow down bags.

    I would learn from the experts and determine first where and when you are going and take appropriate equipment.

    Also, I have read more than one account duplicating Take-A-Knees experience. Never heard of anybody even trying such a thing with down. Maybe they're no longer around.

  8. #28
    Senior Member NorseAmerican's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    \Tighter than a crab's shell, and that's water tight!

    I believe that saying is suposed to be "Tighter than a crab's a.. in mating season"

  9. #29
    Member Chrisp70's Avatar
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    I sleep late every chance I get and eat breakfast late every chance I get to let my gear dry. In my corner of Texas everything dews every morning it's not freezing. Which is 360 days a year. My pack is huge IMO becaus of the "kids" syn bag I carry during colder times of the year. I only get my bag wet when I canoe or when my tent dwelling friends have to march on for a flat dry site till were rain soaked. Show me that Down will have a drier feel to it after me sweating in 100 degree heat and 100 humidity that feel like your swimming in soup every night and i will switch to down

    Forget it I just need to move where down is superior and you never need a bug net.

  10. #30
    Senior Member guySmiley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisp70 View Post
    Forget it I just need to move where down is superior and you never need a bug net.
    Where's that? I want to be your neighbor.

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