Cinch Buckle System SETUP Failure

[Ratdog]

While we are talking buckles I would also point out that I am concerned with some of the hardware I have seen with sharp corners the amsteel goes over. I would take the edge off with some fine abrasives.

The other point worth making is never trust the buckle - add a slippery half hitch to lock the line... ;-)

I am looking at a little dremel work to smooth out the surface that is wrapped.
Also thought about just taping it.

if you have the two wrap larks head on the buckle that is about as good as it gets. The idea is to fill the bar so the line cannot slid off center like his did.

. Haha, not mine, all of mine were wrapped several times. This set was setup by someone who was in a hurry and later did not heed my advice. I'd say she would next time but some folks just have to do it the hard way.

My stuff

Actually this is not correct if using our buckles. The sloped half can pull the webbing out of alignment and cause the webbing to be pinched in a manor other than intended. This could cause the webbing to be unevenly loaded and lead to damage of the webbing. Do NOT add a slipped half to the webbing of our buckles. They are made to not need it and it can cause problems if used. Different buckles work differently and may need it.

Exactly what I love about triangles, a solid, secure lock and correctly oriented every time.

[gmcttr]

New hanger here what is the best way larks head the loop to the buckle ? I have a set of Dutch cinch buckles two larks ok?? Can some show me how to larks head to the buckle??
Thanks
MW

Two or three wraps depending on the thickness of the rope used. Here's the unspliced portion of a 7/64" amsteel continuous loop being wrapped 3 times. The idea is to fill the space so the larks head can't shift...

IMG_3755 (Medium).JPG IMG_3757 (Medium).JPG IMG_3751 (Medium).JPG

[Yellow Lab]

I noticed you wrapped your line differently than the lark's head. Is this stronger, better or cosmetic? Sorry for the newb question - I am trying to understand some of the differences. Thanks.

[gmcttr]

I noticed you wrapped your line differently ...

Two different ways to do achieve the same thing.

Some of our vendors wrap it that way and then make the splice. With the larks head, you splice first and then wrap.

I would expect the strength to be similar for both methods.

I find it wise to check both styles before getting in the hammock to make sure everything has stayed in proper alignment...just as you should check a whoopie sling looped over a marlin spike hitch.

[Yellow Lab]

Two different ways to do achieve the same thing.

Some of our vendors wrap it that way and then make the splice. With the larks head, you splice first and then wrap.

I would expect the strength to be similar for both methods.

I find it wise to check both styles before getting in the hammock to make sure everything has stayed in proper alignment...just as you should check a whoopie sling looped over a marlin spike hitch.

Good tip. I typically check my toggle and knot making sure I am around the knot with the whoopie. Thanks for the clarification.

[mainewoods]

Two or three wraps depending on the thickness of the rope used. Here's the unspliced portion of a 7/64" amsteel continuous loop being wrapped 3 times. The idea is to fill the space so the larks head can't shift...

IMG_3755 (Medium).JPG IMG_3757 (Medium).JPG IMG_3751 (Medium).JPG

Thank You! This helps a lot. Do you know what's a good size of the loop? I like to have a back up.

[GT]

This is why I am a big fan of the "Lock&Load" Quickdraw suspension system.
http://www.readystrap.com/rst_016.htm

I've never had a single slip with one.

[gmcttr]

...Do you know what's a good size of the loop?..

12" is a good size, but it's really whatever length works for you.