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  1. #21
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    Awesome! May try this for my son's room. Two more questions:

    Does this mean there's a big metal rail going across the diagonal of the room, 4' up? Would there be a problem getting it out of the way by going 6-7' up and using more suspension rope to get a good hang, or would that give too much 'wiggle' to the whole structure?

    Do we connect to the rail (tying/clips) or put bolts in the stands themselves?

    Thanks!

  2. #22
    Senior Member Timberrr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spoonyspork View Post
    Does this mean there's a big metal rail going across the diagonal of the room, 4' up?
    Yes, that's exactly what it means.
    Fence toprail is not that big. If you're going to do chin-ups on it, make sure you're at the end by one of the stands - not in the middle.

    Quote Originally Posted by spoonyspork View Post
    Would there be a problem getting it out of the way by going 6-7' up and using more suspension rope to get a good hang?
    No, it shouldn't be a problem.
    In fact, I like that idea. You probably already have a 'biner on each end of your hammock so you could just unclip it and move the hammock out of the way.
    So here's the change: instead of getting two 12' 2x4s and cutting them (twice) to get six 4' 2x4s, get three 12' pieces and cut them once to get six 6' pieces. Or get 14' pieces and cut them once to get 7' pieces. It'll cost just a few bucks more but it'll be well worth it to open the space up in your room.

    Quote Originally Posted by spoonyspork View Post
    Do we connect to the rail (tying/clips) or put bolts in the stands themselves?
    To the rail.
    I prefer wrapping an amsteel or webbing loop (or dogbone) at each end of the pipe. It's easier and more adjustable. But using a drill press to drill through the pipe and putting in an eye-bolt has a certain strength-through-the-use-of-hardware appeal. Either will work.
    I don't like the idea of putting a bolt in the stand itself. The forces would go all whack.

    Good luck. Post pics. And if it fails, let us know where/why.
    Last edited by Timberrr; 08-23-2013 at 15:49.
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  3. #23
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    I like the corner to corner idea. A little modification would be to use a pair of 4x4s in each corner and diagonal pole at the ceiling and floor. Form a square where the top and bottom edges are on the ceiling and floor diagonally and the sides are in each corner. Then put lag screw eye bolts in the 4x4s at the height you want to hang. To get it out of the way, use a biner and unclip from one eye bolt and put it on the other side. This would leave only a pole diagonally across the floor, which should be easy to step over it is only about 1-1/4 inches tall.

    Just a thought.
    Last edited by MartinDWhite; 08-23-2013 at 15:39.

  4. #24
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    One thing you're discounting is that the top rail in most stand designs is not there to support weight, it's there to keep the ends of the stand apart. I wouldn't trust a fence rail for long term hanging if it's actually supporting your weight.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Timberrr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiskeyjack View Post
    One thing you're discounting is that the top rail in most stand designs is not there to support weight, it's there to keep the ends of the stand apart. I wouldn't trust a fence rail for long term hanging if it's actually supporting your weight.
    Yes. I would agree. Therefore, be sure your attachment points are as close to your stands as possible, i.e. at the stands. That way as much force as possible goes vertically right down the stands and isn't leveraged by being out on the rails. Because yeah... they are good for resisting compression not torsion.
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