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  1. #11
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    Haha, yeah I would never want to wake up in the morning to find a tree laying ontop of me because it had been pulled out of the ground . However, the main reason for needing such tension and wanting to use a SLS system for me is that I hang on Big pine trees and Cedars, a few oaks. But mainly pines, and when I say big I mean like 60+ feet tall with a tree diameter of 3 feet plus almost always. My tree huggers are 6's and I have found that they tend to be small sometimes. The trees I hang on often take a load of 6 feet or more of snow come winter time and winds of 40+ mph during some of our thunder storms. Large strong trees like this like to grow a good distance apart to get the most sunlight as possible. So tree strength not usually a concern of mine, but hanging distance and flexability is. But it is always good to be mindful about what your hanging from.
    Last edited by randomsteve95370; 09-03-2013 at 21:11.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Boston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randomsteve95370 View Post
    I understand the physics when it comes to the SLS system and I realize that hanging a taut like increases the load compared to running 2 separate lines. However As I have said there would never be more then 400# of weight on the line at any given time. Seeing that 1/8" amsteel holds 2500# average I would have to lose strength /increase the load weight to more then 80% of what it is before it would even get close to breaking. I do not hang my hammock more then a few feet off the ground, and never above anything sharp so worst case is a broken line and a sore butt, If I feel that this could happen after testing out an SLS system pulled taut then I'd just use 5/32 or 3/16 amsteel which has a breaking point of well over 4 thousand pounds.
    You don't just need to be concerned with line strength, but the force you're putting on the object you're attaching to - which is the real concern with a taut line suspension.

    So worst case a tree falls on you.

    Let's look at a scenario, just to give you an idea. Assuming your 40ft span, let's sat the hammock itself sags 4ft from ridgeline to butt when loaded. you want to be 1 ft off the ground. So with an arrow straight suspension you'd need to attach 5 ft off the ground. This isn't practical of course, because the line will stretch when loaded - I don't have modulus of elasticity for amsteel handy so I'm going to make some assumptions.

    Let's say it sags 1 ft. So you raise your suspension 1 foot higher - hanging at 6 ft high. You're hang angle will now be ~3.5 degree's. This mean's, with a 400 lb load, you're putting 3278lbs of force on the line, and 3272 lbs of force horizontally on the tree. Hope the roots are deep and strong!

    OK, so lets raise it to 7 ft high, roughly the max you can easily reach from the ground. That's a 7.3* hang angle and still about 1540 lbs horizontally applied to the tree.

    Not just worrying about tree's falling over, what kind of damage does this do to the tree? Are you using tree straps? Better ensure they're also rated for this high load. How are you connecting to the amsteel line? You'll have stress riser's reducing the breaking strength there too, most likely.

    It sounds like this would be a permanent set up. Why not just use a ladder and hang the amsteel where it needs to be?

  3. #13
    Senior Member ErickSaint's Avatar
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    Not sure it seems practical to have one system for both uses. Maybe a length of amsteel and a turnbuckle for the trees? Two fixed ends and use the hardware to get your tension. Easily adjustable for more tension as the fruit gets heavier. But not sure how to use it for both.

  4. #14
    Senior Member packeagle's Avatar
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    Re: Amsteel rope tension.

    For the line for the fruit trees how about using a turnbuckle or comealong?

  5. #15
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    Well I had a whole post written up with math and all the fancyness that is required but the internet decided to eat it. So heres the quick version.

    Quote Originally Posted by Boston View Post
    You don't just need to be concerned with line strength, but the force you're putting on the object you're attaching to - which is the real concern with a taut line suspension.

    So worst case a tree falls on you.

    Let's look at a scenario, just to give you an idea. Assuming your 40ft span, let's sat the hammock itself sags 4ft from ridgeline to butt when loaded. you want to be 1 ft off the ground. So with an arrow straight suspension you'd need to attach 5 ft off the ground. This isn't practical of course, because the line will stretch when loaded - I don't have modulus of elasticity for amsteel handy so I'm going to make some assumptions.

    Let's say it sags 1 ft. So you raise your suspension 1 foot higher - hanging at 6 ft high. You're hang angle will now be ~3.5 degree's. This mean's, with a 400 lb load, you're putting 3278lbs of force on the line, and 3272 lbs of force horizontally on the tree. Hope the roots are deep and strong!

    OK, so lets raise it to 7 ft high, roughly the max you can easily reach from the ground. That's a 7.3* hang angle and still about 1540 lbs horizontally applied to the tree.

    Not just worrying about tree's falling over, what kind of damage does this do to the tree? Are you using tree straps? Better ensure they're also rated for this high load. How are you connecting to the amsteel line? You'll have stress riser's reducing the breaking strength there too, most likely.

    It sounds like this would be a permanent set up. Why not just use a ladder and hang the amsteel where it needs to be?
    A taut unloaded line is completely different then a taut loaded line. I am not talking about having a guitar string tight line that you can play High E on. Im talking about no tighter then Bass string low E tightness. Enough to where when the line is not loaded it is taut, (Taut: Having no slack) but when it is loaded it sags which is fine. Having the line taut before being loaded does nothing more then keep me from having to climb a tree to hang my line 13ft off the ground so that I can sit in my hammock without my butt hitting the ground.


    People need to stop worrying about if everything is going to be strong enough, I have been talking about a system like this in multiple threads for the last few days and I haven't got a single suggestion, just "Your gonna die!", "Math!", "The poor trees!", Those are pretty much the only 3 replies I have gotten yet. I am not stupid, I have considered the stresses to the trees, the amount of force on the rope, ect ect ect ect. But you see I dont hang where ever it is that you hang, I hang in Pine forests, Cedar forests, Redwood forests. I'm talking trees that are 3ft or more in diameter, trees that are 60ft+ in height, Trees that weigh in over 20 thousand pounds, Trees that have tap roots that got 12ft+ into the ground(have a fun time pulling a tree over with some 1/8" amsteel and your butt that can withstand 40+mph winds, and snow loads of thousands of pounds). I use tree straps (Though it wouldnt cause much harm even if I didn't, im talking trees that have several feet of bark that is fire proof! a few hundred pounds does diddly to it), climbing grade equipment, UCRs, Spliced loops, Amsteel rope. Now while you may not feel safe hanging from a system that could hold a small elephant, me and my 130 pound butt feel just fine hanging 12" off the ground from rope stronger then steel. Yes yes, you can argue the forces and the math all day long, but the fact of the matter is that while it may not be "Osha" approved, and it may not stand up to the 20:1 (Or whatever it is) strength for rope safety, i'm not painting the golden gate bridge at hundreds of feet in the air. Im hanging in a hammock, 12" off the ground. This is not a permanent setup but one that I use ever time I go camping so no a ladder wont work.
    Last edited by randomsteve95370; 09-04-2013 at 12:41.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by packeagle View Post
    For the line for the fruit trees how about using a turnbuckle or comealong?
    Yeah, im thinking a comealong will work for that. Still need to figure out a way of securing the line for a hammock now though.

  7. #17
    Senior Member packeagle's Avatar
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    Re: Amsteel rope tension.

    Turnbuckle like this?

    http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details...lap550?R=6NDH5

    Heavy, but you could put a stick or something in the gap to tighten it. No tools needed. Maybe weld a t handle in the middle?

  8. #18
    Senior Member -FiveFiveSix-'s Avatar
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    I build a huge deer stand last year, and the wind started to tip it over. I used amsteel (3/8) with a come a long to straighten it out. To keep this from happening again Im using whoopee slings ( 7/64 about 75 feet) anchored to some trees on all 4 corners. I put turn buckles in at each tree, attached them to the whoopee slings and tightened it up as hard as I could by hand, then used the turnbuckles to do the rest. Its been about 6 months, no stretch or sag in the lines, and my deer stand is nice and plumb again.. Ill get some pics next time im out if your interested.

  9. #19
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    Turnbuckles, that is a great idea!

  10. #20
    Senior Member Floridahanger's Avatar
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    Sounds like you may need a 1 tree set up. There are many types of set ups that don't require you running 50+ feet of cordage and maybe you can come up with another.

    Here are some choices -->J Faulk portable hammock stand http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paJip...etailpage#t=32
    --> Handy Hammock http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qE_Ye...detailpage#t=6
    --> Treesoptional hammock support http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjecK...tailpage#t=351
    and the always entertaining bushcraft
    --> Single tree hammock setup http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...7I_HLsEnbc#t=6

    With your woods as a test lab, you can help us out as well.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
    Enjoy and have fun with your family, before they have fun without you

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