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  1. #11
    Member rocketBoy's Avatar
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    I recently made up a set of straps with large eyes (4.5") so I can leave my toggles marlin-spiked to the strap and pass them through the eyes. It can save a little time when setting up.

  2. #12
    Senior Member lostagain's Avatar
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    I cobbled mine together from 2x10' lengths of webbing form REI and a pair of D rings from a tie down set from Home Depot. I also got a set of 6 slide locks from Ebay. I use two of the slide locks on each strap to form the loop for the loop for the D ring and thread the strap through that. I connect to the strap with cinch buckles/amsteel loops. Works really well.

    I'd say 10' is plenty long enough.
    Remember...no matter where you go...there you are.

    "I have said that Texas is a state of mind, but I think it is more than that. It is a mystique closely approximating a religion". - John Steinbeck


  3. #13
    Senior Member Rain Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostagain View Post
    I cobbled mine together from 2x10' lengths of webbing form REI ...
    I have yet to find anything but nylon at my REI, so I avoid it.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrjaw14 View Post
    So far I'm looking at 2 pre-made 1" polyester slings 10ft length with a 1" eye on both ends. ... Is 10' about right? ... You guys ordering a 1" eye? Or are you just ordering the webbing and making your own?
    Several things purely my opinion. If you're going to have, say, 20' of webbing, you have to make a choice of two 10' lengths or two different lengths. The first gives you no flexibility. Rarely are trees identical. So, I always have one strap longer and one shorter. Say, 12' and 8' assuming you're staying with 20' total.

    It depends on what part of the country one is in, and therefore size of trees, of course. But for the Nashville area I find a 9' and a 6' strap to be plenty. I usually have an Amsteel "dogbone" of 3' or 4' which can do double-duty at an extender if needed. Otherwise, it hangs my pack for me.

    As far as the eye size, a 1" eye for 1" webbing will never do. Too tight a fit. I do make my own eyes and find a 2" eye for 1" webbing to be just right. Again, in my opinion.

    I only place an eye on one end and almost never wrap the strap more than once around a tree. I use a marlin spike hitch to an attachment point for my whoopie sling.

    Have fun! Experiment! Try multiple straps, lengths, colors, etc. At least, I have.

    Rain Man

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    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods

    http://www.MeetUp.com/NashvilleBackpacker
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  4. #14
    Senior Member shhQuiet's Avatar
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    I bought some climbing sling webbing at the local outdoor shop and hand-sewed a loop in one end. After looping around the tree 1,2 or 3 times (depending on tree size), I pass the unsewn end through the sewn loop and use a marlinspike hitch to hang the whoopie.

    Last edited by shhQuiet; 09-05-2013 at 19:52. Reason: added photo
    Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.
    - John Muir

  5. #15
    Senior Member Zilla's Avatar
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    Try readystrap.com
    i have a set and i had a dee ring put on one end to use as a chock around the tree, its less wear and tear on my straps, the other end left open to use with dutch buckles, or get a 3 inc loop and anything would fit thru it.
    I use ten footers- Never want to get caught short

  6. #16
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boston View Post
    I don't see how going around twice reduces strain on your hardware. Maybe I'm picturing it wrong? It'll reduce the pressure on the tree though.
    It only has the potential to reduce the force on the loop (or biner, dutch clip, etc...) that you are threading the end of the suspension through. This is because more wraps around the tree = more friction resisting the webbing trying to "unwrap." Since the loop (or biner, or dutch clip) is what keeps the webbing from "unwrapping," the load on that piece of gear is reduced.

    You are correct that it doesn't reduce the load on the hammock side of the system.


  7. #17
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by shhQuiet View Post
    I bought some climbing sling webbing at the local outdoor shop and hand-sewed a loop in one end. After looping around the tree 1,2 or 3 times (depending on tree size), I pass the unsewn end through the sewn loop and use a marlinspike hitch to hang the whoopie.

    I also have some climbing webbing, but abandoned it for hammock use because I heard it stretches really bad. is this not the case?

  8. #18
    Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjaw14 View Post
    I'm looking at making a strapworks.com order for some straps

    So far I'm looking at 2 pre-made 1" polyester slings 10ft length with a 1" eye on both ends. That's about $20 shipped.

    It occured to me that I might should ask what strap lengths you guys are using. Is 10' about right? too long? too short?

    You guys ordering a 1" eye? Or are you just ordering the webbing and making your own?

    Go to Readystrap

    http://readystrap.com/rst_021.htm

    Two 10 foot single eye 3000# straps will cost $12.00 for camo or $10.00 for black.

  9. #19
    Senior Member shhQuiet's Avatar
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    Tree strap questions (Length, eye size, etc)

    Quote Originally Posted by mrjaw14 View Post
    I also have some climbing webbing, but abandoned it for hammock use because I heard it stretches really bad. is this not the case?
    I haven't had any issue with mine even when wet.
    Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.
    - John Muir

  10. #20
    Senior Member Rain Man's Avatar
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by nsutherl View Post
    It only has the potential to reduce the force on the loop (or biner, dutch clip, etc...) that you are threading the end of the suspension through. This is because more wraps around the tree = more friction resisting the webbing trying to "unwrap." Since the loop (or biner, or dutch clip) is what keeps the webbing from "unwrapping," the load on that piece of gear is reduced.
    Don't mean to be contrarian, but to me that seems a false intuition. In fact, if anything, it seems to me it might increase the strain on the loop, as there's no slippage at all to allow it to shift to a happy median. YMMV.

    Rain Man

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    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods

    http://www.MeetUp.com/NashvilleBackpacker
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