Nice setup. I'm trying to convince the wife to let me set something up indoors. The anchors can't be an eyesore, that's one stipulation. I'm using the "I'd love to lay in it with our newborn and rock the baby to sleep" angle and I haven't received an outright "No" yet
I recently did this... It worked great!
I'm a Mormon. I know it, I live it, and I love it.
PapaS, straight into 2/4 studs?
Hanging inside is the main reason I want to work on the basement and take that space back from the 4 cats we have...lol
Darn hairballs!!!
I really want to install some anchor points in my room. I was thinking about making a turtle dog stand but the room it takes up is making me consider this method more (I may make a stand still later for outdoor use). So I live in Florida and my room is an addition to the house, the walls are cinder bock and I'm not to sure about studs etc in this construction. What would be my safest method here, is it possible. My room is plenty long enough 15 ft. I'm about 220 lbs. Any suggestions from Florida residents who know cinder block construction and what hardware and tools I may need is appreciated. Thanks! Amanda/Pimms
This is what we use for anchor points at work, but they are about $100 each. There are less expensive alternatives that will be just as good.
I hang heavy things for a living.
Most block is hollow and you need to know where the solid parts are. Redhead and others make anchors for concrete that will do the job if you hit the good solid part of the block.
Masonry drill bit of the exact size is required.
As an alternate, you can get all you would need at Fastenal. There's probably one near you.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/52304
After the anchor is secure, then this type of forged eye screwed down tight with a washer between will make it complete.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0511531
3/8 rated steel is overkill for the hang but it's the minimum I'd consider safe in block.
I haven't had good luck on anchoring bolts in cinder blocks, I should have called a pro to do the job.
For outdoors or indoors, consider using a Speer/Jack (S/J) stand which is free-standing by design and is not much wider than the ridgeline. There is no need to pierce the wall with something that may not be durable and is not adjustable on position, either horizontal or vertical. The legs and top bar can be changed out to make the stand different heights or lengths.
The inverted T base on the S/J stand could be a disadvantage for some. You can build the stand with the bases on the legs parallel to the walls, even if the ridgeline is not perpendicular to those walls.
Consider the ceiling fan when choosing the height, but indoors the fan might not be near the hammock suspension.
Do not go cheap on the pipe diameter and you will have a stand that will last, be portable, and easily assembled in the next room or next home.
Ok Thanks everyone looks like I'll be making a stand of some sort then. Don't want to hurt the integrity of the walls. Wish I would have talked to Olddog more and looked at the stands better at the a Florida Hang this past weekend haha. I need to hire someone to make me one I'll get a list together if supplies early next week see how my attempt on stand making will go. Wish me luck!
Forget about the walls. Hang from ceiling joists, diagonal to a corner. Count on using an adjustable ridgeline to get the right hang angle or auxiliary lines to pull the hammock ends down and outward.
The load you introduce will be distributed to multiple members and well supported if the anchors are near corners.
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