Ok, here is the quick video I took. The particulars are in the description.
http://youtu.be/-6thKoZI-aY
Well, I picked it up today. Let the fun begin. Hopefully some of the guys that have done restore work on these machines can lend some pointers.
Does anybody know about ceramic and spring switch internals? I've never seen anything like this.
First look inside the switch. Pretty dirty.
This is after Cleaning up the contact lever. Is it worth getting out the dremel and some kind of compound to polish up the part?
Poor focus, but this was after I cleaned up all the black "soot," for lack of a better term, build up. Again, is it worth polishing these with something?
When I took the ceramic out of the housing this is what I found on the back. Any way to fix this? Will it matter? I can't find any information on this type of switch. Maybe I'm just looking for the wrong search terms. I'm guessing these springs are of a certain resistance, and can't just be replaced with any old spring.
You can clean all the contacts with 320-600 grit sandpaper but be sure to get all the dust out. The bumped 'spring' is wire wound resistor. Each wind is in the neighborhood of 10-15 ohms. They are wound in series so each progressive contact is like 55, 44, 33, 22, 11, and .1 ohm as you sweep across the contacts. There's not much to go wrong with these unless you break something physically. I wouldn't worry about the bumped coil, straighten it out a little or not.
The only mod I did on one of these is add a flexible conductor (the black wire) to carry current through the pivot pin as it was a bit intermittent and that solved the problem.
My latest acquisition is a Model 90 Kenmore. It's a very well balanced relatively high speed machine. Has every available accessory, cam, and template that originally shipped with it. It was one owner and barely used. It was found on craigslist from a 28 day old ad with no picture. Very nice cabinet to go with it as well. Keep looking and you will find one. This is the most I've paid for any of the 4 machines so far and it was a steal for $25.
I don't think I'm going to risk trying to straighten it out at all, seems like if it breaks in the process I'd be up that proverbial creek.
I was looking at that pivot on mine as well, wondering if that was a weak point for the current. Thanks for the pic I may definitely add something like that if it proves to be a problem.
Nice score. The last thing I need to do is start acquiring more machines, already full up on space. I'll work on restoring this one and see where it goes from there. This has been in the family since brand new, so it's not going anywhere.
So today I tackled the motor assembly and got that cleaned up. The set screw on the old rubber pulley was stuck good, bent a flat bit in one driver and broke my small craftsman flat blade, twice. That's why the pic shows the front end still attached. I tried a shot of oil to loosen it up a bit because I was lazy, no go. Ended up having to get the butane torch from the garage to get it off, cut off the dried out rubber, about 30 seconds of heat and it broke loose right away.
Here is the biggest question about this assembly. I took the grease/oil wicks and springs out. They were in pretty bad shape, see the pic below. They need to be replaced. I'm guessing the springs are not very important here, can probably use pens springs. Can the wicks be any type of felt rope? I saw wicks at sew-classic but they are listed as 3/16" and for singer machines, my opening is at no more than 1/8" and I cant seem to find anything other than felt cord by the meter. Way more than I'll ever need, but oh well.
More pics at http://blog.ericksaint.com/1948-kenmore-restoration/
This is about the best I could get the commutator, that is one thing I will not be taking anything abrasive to.
The stuck collar before heat.
Grease/oil wicks.
You can get brush sets with wires attached for these.
http://www.sew4less.com/category/58/Brushes_Carbon
And
http://www.shop.sew-classic.com/Moto...-Parts_c21.htm
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