I know knots arent recommended for amsteel, but how about a marlin spike hitch? I am tyrying an ultrlight suspension by minimizimg the amout of webbing usedd, thanks again.
I know knots arent recommended for amsteel, but how about a marlin spike hitch? I am tyrying an ultrlight suspension by minimizimg the amout of webbing usedd, thanks again.
The issue is the diameter of the loop relative to the thickness of the amsteel. I'm trying to envision where you would tie a marlinspike hitch in the amsteel. In any case it would be doing a tight loop around itself under load.
YMMV
HYOH
Free advice worth what you paid for it. ;-)
Howdy. If you are talking about using it in lieu of tree straps, don't forget to protect the tree!! Interested in the weight to strength myself....
The manufacturer Samson Rope recommends splices instead of knots to maintain optimal breaking strength. Anything you plan on doing with a marlin spike hitch will be stronger if you use a splice.
Don't know how to splice and don't plan on learning? You probably need to find another rope then.
"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds." Ralph Waldo Emerson
No, I was going to use a relatively short piece of webbing, with a loop in each side. But then on one side have the am steel girth hitched to one of the loops, to act as an extender/ marlin spike hitch area.
You could do the same thing by attaching a long amsteel UCR to the short webbing and connect it directly to the hammock or with a Dutch hook, soft shackle, etc.
I'm using a 3/4" dowel with a hole drilled in it instead of a marlinspike. I saw it recommended by someone here and tried it.Originally Posted by ferrulewax
Drill a hole perpendicular to the axis of a a 1-1/2" length of 3/4" hardwood dowel. Round out the ends of the hole. Slip the end of your amsteel through the hole, and adjust the dowel to the position you want it. Slip a half hitch over each end of the dowel (creating a clove hitch) and put some strain on the line to tighten things up. The hitch holds quite well, even with slippery amsteel. I don't remember who originally posted to give proper credit. They were using a single half hitch around the dowel successfully, but the times I tried it without the second half hitch I slid slowly down to the ground.
YMMV.
What I was looking at was using the marlin spike as my only adjustability, and using continuous loops on the hammock.
I believe a Marlin spike hitch is probably one of the few knots that is not so hard on Amsteel Blue.
It spreads the bend over a wider area and so less stress on individual fibers the way other knots can.
I'd recommend a soft shackle if it will work for your scenario.
The toggle can drop out of a Marlin Spike hitch when the rope goes slack during adjustment. It's not a big deal, just check that the hitch looks correct before you put any weight on it.
You can end up on the ground if you forgot to check:-)
A great many people think they are thinking when they are merely rearranging their prejudices.
-- William James
That's what I am using with the dowels instead of the marlinspike. You can reposition the dowel anywhere along the amsteel line, and I use a continuous loop at each end of the hammock to hang from the toggle.
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