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  1. #1
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    New DIY suspension device

    A little device i knocked up.

    Stainless steel flatbar drilled and ground to shape.

    Not the lightest device but so far the easiest to use on a straight line.
    Works on a straight line and friction locks

    I just spent 7 months in arrowtown/queenstown in my hammock every night in the bush(gold mining)

    I came up with this idea after deficiencies were highlighted with the devices i was using.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    that's a very interesting device, though a bit strange maybe to make such out of stainless steel in order to use ultralight dyneema .

    would be interesting to hear what deficiencies you found with other suspension systems (wouldn't a UCR or whoopie sling for instance work nicely with your dyneema line, and also keep the ultralight theme?)

    cheers, and thanks for sharing. always nice to hear and see stuff "from the field"

  3. #3
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Good luck on your new DIY suspension device. Looks like it holds without slipping.

    My hammock friend pans for gold in streams. Once in the zone, time passes and sometimes gold flecks appear in your sluice.
    Hammocks nearby for a good sleep

  4. #4
    New Member peter8's Avatar
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    Can you give a little detail on how you use the device? For example, what is the slot on the non-hook arm used for?

  5. #5
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    Good eyes and great question.
    The slot WAS to be used to start a secondary set of loops
    as a gaurentee that no slipage would occur.

    After trialing it "as is" i discovered it is ok with no slippage.
    Ive only spent 7 nights in the hammock indoors but i think that is a good enough trial.
    Last edited by jadekayak; 07-13-2021 at 05:52.

  6. #6
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    I made an elongated C staple from 4mm diameter 304 stainless.
    The gap between the arms was 2.75 mm and was just enough to produce a friction lock.
    The deficiency was having to constantly move the bitter end out of the way of the loaded line when wrapping it.

    The new device creates a minor friction lock through the loop and round the horn so you can adjust the hangle then simply wrap the loaded line around the hook end.

    5 times is sufficient to produce a rock steady lock but you can get away with 3 wraps only if its set up like the photo.

    This device should have the horn reduced in length to lighten it.
    Even better would be titanium.

    I also designed the same thing using 4mm diameter 316 stainless rod but two WELDS are required-1 to close the loop and one for the horn.
    A much lighter method and the bending is far easier than cutting,grinding,filing and drilling.

    However-most people can cut,drill,file,and sand but not everyone has a welder.

    I spent many months and about 15 or so designs on paper to get this far.

  7. #7
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    p.s.

    The dyneema IS ultralight and 1000kg breaking strain.
    A whoopie sling uses 2.5 times more line and also increases the overall length required to hang.

    New Zealand bush can sometimes be rather dense so trees to close is a real problem in some areas.

    Dyneema line is also bloody expensive here at over $5 per meter at marine shops(if they even have any)

    One specialist supplier in Auckland has the stuff for $3 a meter in 5 colours now(3 mm dia)

    There is also a huge weight saving to be made with a single line AND lightweight devices.

    Only 1 device per end is required.
    No marlin spike or carabiner or other device at the tree strap end.

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