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  1. #11
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    OK, thanks. Sounds like the tensile strength rating is probably more or less the same thing as the rope/webbing rating as used by Speer and HH. And that to allow for variables such as wear and knots, use 20% or so. So 5/32 with a rating of 1900 lbs ( which I think would exceed what HH uses) would give a working load of 380lbs per side. But are the effects of knots supposed to be in addition to the already reduced rating to 20%? The idea that you would then need to reduce that some more, to account for knots, would seem maybe a little excessive? That could drop 1900 lbs to only a couple of hundred. But if that was the case, a lot of HH ropes would be breaking.

    Or bottom line, as Angrysparrow said, 5/32 works just fine.

  2. #12
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    But are the effects of knots supposed to be in addition to the already reduced rating to 20%?
    I'm afraid that's the case.

    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    Or bottom line, as Angrysparrow said, 5/32 works just fine.
    It does work fine, but note that I doubled it up.

    1900lbs halved for being knotted = 950lbs
    950lbs quartered to approximate 'working load' = 237.5lbs
    237.5lbs doubled when doubling up the line = 475lbs working load rating per side.
    I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt. - Cormac McCarthy

  3. #13
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by angrysparrow View Post
    I'm afraid that's the case.



    It does work fine, but note that I doubled it up.

    1900lbs halved for being knotted = 950lbs
    950lbs quartered to approximate 'working load' = 237.5lbs
    237.5lbs doubled when doubling up the line = 475lbs working load rating per side.
    OK, guess that trick will work!

  4. #14
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    Hmm, I guess that does explain why people are getting away with such thin line.

    Maybe I should just do a Lark's head with two anchor hitches on the descending rings instead of a Lark's head, an overhand knot with a single line to the rings
    Last edited by funbun; 06-18-2007 at 08:19.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Bug-Bait's Avatar
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    Spyderline Color

    OK...here's a potentially "dumb" question. Is there any reason to get a particular color of spyderline for a ridgeline to, perhaps, make it more visible, etc...or is this not important at all?

  6. #16
    Senior Member blackbishop351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qpens View Post
    OK...here's a potentially "dumb" question. Is there any reason to get a particular color of spyderline for a ridgeline to, perhaps, make it more visible, etc...or is this not important at all?
    I got the LEAST visible stuff they had...I like everything nice and subdued. But that's just me. As far as safety or whatever, I don't think there's an issue with the ridgeline like there is with, say, tarp guy lines.
    "Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson

  7. #17
    Senior Member Hooch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qpens View Post
    OK...here's a potentially "dumb" question. Is there any reason to get a particular color of spyderline for a ridgeline to, perhaps, make it more visible, etc...or is this not important at all?
    I wouldn't think that to be a dumb question at all. One good way to learn here is to aks those who do know. I think it's all a matter of personal preference, really. I don't use a ridgeline at all, but there are plenty here at HF that do. I'm sure that there are as many different ridgeline colors and materials here as there are hammockers who have ridgelines. I think there are even a couple of people here who use glow-cord for theirs.
    "If you play a Nicleback song backwards, you'll hear messages from the devil. Even worse, if you play it forward, you'll hear Nickleback." - Dave Grohl

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by funbun View Post
    Hmm, I guess that does explain why people are getting away with such thin line.

    Maybe I should just do a Lark's head with two anchor hitches on the descending rings instead of a Lark's head, an overhand knot with a single line to the rings
    I used the anchor hitches for awhile, they work but I switched to the ascending knot. The ascending knot is basically 3 loops around the rings and a bowline tied against the rings. There is a link in the rings thread.

    My issue with the anchor hitch is that it makes the rings tighter, which made it harder to get my webbing out. But I think I could have gotten away without the slip knot. The ascending knot is made to be a little loose, which makes using the rings easier. But you need a slip knot on them.
    Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
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