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Thread: Ridgeline

  1. #1
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    Ridgeline

    Very new to tarp thing, what do I need to use for a ridge line, will most lines work ? What would be the best? I have some braided 1/8" 200 lb breaking load don't know if this is good enough? Sorry, for all the noob questions .

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    Most of the people here who hike use Zing It or something similar on their tarp because of it's light weight and lack of stretch.

    Paracord or nylon line will stretch too much so you want to avoid that if possible.

    Personally, I use Mule Tape for my ridgeline and have bank line for my tie outs. I motorcycle camp so I don't have weight issues.

    You can get everything you need to rig a tarp from Dutchware.
    http://dutchwaregear.com/tarp-and-quilt-stuff/

    I get bank line at my local hardware store. Mule Tape was gifted to me but you can purchase it of Ebay or hit up your local phone company/power company as they toss it out after they use it.

  3. #3
    Member kurteous's Avatar
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    How are you planning to tie up your tarp? Are you going to use individual lines from each end of the ridge line to the tree, or are you planning on more of a continuous ridge line? The only thing that would worry me with the 200 lb test line would be if you have a large tarp and plan on using it in windy conditions. A gust of wind broadsiding your tightly pitched tarp over a large enough surface area could easily put 200 lbs of force one the line.

    With some quick figuring (using .8 as the coefficient of drag for a tarp pitched in a tight A-frame and assuming an 11x9 rectangular tarp) a 40 mph gust would exert 168 lbs of force on the side of the tarp.

    Edit: i just re-figured using a drag coefficient of 1 instead of .8 and came up with 206.7 lbs of force on the side of the tarp. .8 is the drag coefficient for the corner of a cube and 1.05 is for the face of a cube. I think that an a-frame is closer in value to the face of a cube than the corner, so I upped the figure I used in my formula a bit.

    In case you are interested, the formula I used was 0.5 x C x D x V^2. C is the drag coefficient, D is the density of air (1.25 kg/m^3), and V is the velocity of the wind in meters/sec. This will give you a figure is pascals which you can convert to PSI by multiplying by 0.000145.
    Last edited by kurteous; 03-14-2014 at 09:01. Reason: More info
    All those hours exploring the great outdoors made me more resilient and confident

  4. #4
    Senior Member FLRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kurteous View Post
    How are you planning to tie up your tarp? Are you going to use individual lines from each end of the ridge line to the tree, or are you planning on more of a continuous ridge line? The only thing that would worry me with the 200 lb test line would be if you have a large tarp and plan on using it in windy conditions. A gust of wind broadsiding your tightly pitched tarp over a large enough surface area could easily put 200 lbs of force one the line.

    With some quick figuring (using .8 as the coefficient of drag for a tarp pitched in a tight A-frame and assuming an 11x9 rectangular tarp) a 40 mph gust would exert 168 lbs of force on the side of the tarp.

    Edit: i just re-figured using a drag coefficient of 1 instead of .8 and came up with 206.7 lbs of force on the side of the tarp. .8 is the drag coefficient for the corner of a cube and 1.05 is for the face of a cube. I think that an a-frame is closer in value to the face of a cube than the corner, so I upped the figure I used in my formula a bit.

    In case you are interested, the formula I used was 0.5 x C x D x V^2. C is the drag coefficient, D is the density of air (1.25 kg/m^3), and V is the velocity of the wind in meters/sec. This will give you a figure is pascals which you can convert to PSI by multiplying by 0.000145.
    Thanks for the cogent response on actual tarp forces!

    That being said, however, it's also worth thinking about designed firebreak failure points in tarp design. Which would you rather try to fix in the field? A line that snapped and which can be fixed with something as simple as a knot? Or a torn tie-out point or even a split tarp that requires sewing (and seam sealing before it's water-tight)?

    I'd much rather fix the line using a knot if the forces on the tarp approach its design parameters...
    "Just prepare what you can and enjoy the rest."
    --Floridahanger

  5. #5
    Member kurteous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLRider View Post
    I'd much rather fix the line using a knot if the forces on the tarp approach its design parameters...
    That is an excellent point. In my set up I believe the guy lines to the stakes would go well before the tarp, and definitely before the zing it RL.
    All those hours exploring the great outdoors made me more resilient and confident

  6. #6
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Lots of choices out there. I use Zing-it with a continuous ridgeline as shown here.

    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

  7. #7
    Senior Member Mountnman's Avatar
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    I too use zing it with Dutch hardware
    "I love not man the less, but Nature more."
    Byron

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    Senior Member beep's Avatar
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    +1 to Zing It
    "The more I carry the happier I am in camp; the less I carry the happier I am getting there" - Sgt. Rock

  9. #9
    Senior Member ErickSaint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doogie View Post
    Lots of choices out there. I use Zing-it with a continuous ridgeline as shown here.

    If you are hooked directly to the tarp on one end, then pulling tension by way of a tarp fly in a loop attached direct to the other side, how are you able to slide the tarp back and forth? It would seem that the location would be dependant on your original hook up point on the " Dutch hook" end and where the other side was after tensioning.

    Or do you have to loosen from the "locking" part of the tarp fly, adjust position and then re-tension and lock it off again?

    Just trying to understand. I actually just got my Superfly a couple weeks ago. My only setup with it has been in the house. But my CRL is 7/64 amsteel with a fixed loop on one end that I just biner the line to itself, and the other end I just use a figure 9. Then the tarp is on Lash-It prussics. Of course I get the "V" on the figure 9 side. But the other is just the biner tight up against the tree.

    Not trying to hijack, just trying to understand the video. I could easily cut and redo my fixed loop and add a hook. I started with 35' before splicing in the loop, for my CRL length.

  10. #10
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErickSaint View Post
    If you are hooked directly to the tarp on one end, then pulling tension by way of a tarp fly in a loop attached direct to the other side, how are you able to slide the tarp back and forth? It would seem that the location would be dependant on your original hook up point on the " Dutch hook" end and where the other side was after tensioning.

    Or do you have to loosen from the "locking" part of the tarp fly, adjust position and then re-tension and lock it off again?

    Just trying to understand. I actually just got my Superfly a couple weeks ago. My only setup with it has been in the house. But my CRL is 7/64 amsteel with a fixed loop on one end that I just biner the line to itself, and the other end I just use a figure 9. Then the tarp is on Lash-It prussics. Of course I get the "V" on the figure 9 side. But the other is just the biner tight up against the tree.

    Not trying to hijack, just trying to understand the video. I could easily cut and redo my fixed loop and add a hook. I started with 35' before splicing in the loop, for my CRL length.
    Basically you are making a loop around both trees with the tarp as part of the loop, attempt as an ascii picture:
    ____________________________
    /
    (____###############______)

    The # is the tarp, so the loop can just be shifted. I normally put light tension on it before getting it into final position, then tension it up when it's in a good spot. This keeps the abrasion on the tree to a minimum since the lash-it will be moving around the tree when shifting position. I actually have added a section of about 18" of gutted paracord on each end that protects the tree. The Zing-it goes through the gutted paracord so when shifting it doesn't cut into the tree.
    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

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