Winter Tarp design - Looking for input

[sunkmail]

From a weight standpoint the mini mod is nice. However, from what I've read they don't hold up that well to strong winds and any real significant snow loads. I guess it depends on what conditions you intend to use the tarp in. You could also do both and pick your poles for the forecast.

Good points. Currently, I don't expect to be in anything too heavy, but I do like to think for the future. It probably won't be much of a difference to put in allowances for both pole methods. PLus, I can always just use the side pulls as side pulls, without the pole.

if you do it in blue tarp first you can see how you like the door setup, then move on to the keeper material.

sometimes it is faster than working it all out before hand

True, but that's why i'm using the computer CAD model. I can make all sorts of changes, check angles, and generally mess with it without using any materials. (Has worked so far for me)
I used to design specialised enclosures and shelters using sheet metal, often with moving parts and lots of interlocking components. If I can't get a tarp right, I'm going to be pretty disappointed in myself. With saying that, a blue tarp is pretty cheap .... I'll have to think about that one.

Winter tarps don't need as long a ridge line because the doors can close the space off. This will help with creating a micro climate.

I haven't had time to make any more changes, but I will be shortening the RL - You make a really good point here that I hadn't taken into account.

Thanks for all the suggestions - it's really appreciated!

[e_2]

Update:

I made an error when measuring my hammock the first go.... it seemed odd that it was so much longer. Upon remeasuring, it was 11' 2" (134") NOT 11' 8" (140") like I stated in the first post.

I managed to get a bit shorter by adjusting the amsteel end loops coming from the hammock. It's now down to a much more respectable 10' 7" (127")

With this new info, I was able to shorten the tarp significantly and came up with a drawing for the flat pattern.
Attachment 82349

When closed up loosely, the doors are flush with the end of the RL. In extreme weather, I can close them further and have a bit of an undercut shape, like the standard DIYG design. (I haven't added the side pull-outs to the drawing yet, but plan on 2 per side.

Thoughts??

On paper (or CAD) it looks fine but when you finish putting the real thing together and take it out to some trees, having an extra 6 or 8 inches of wiggle room can save a lot of time and hassle. I understand the drive to go as ultralight as you can but, in all seriousness, the extra one-tenth of an ounce will not be noticed.

[sunkmail]

On paper (or CAD) it looks fine but when you finish putting the real thing together and take it out to some trees, having an extra 6 or 8 inches of wiggle room can save a lot of time and hassle. I understand the drive to go as ultralight as you can but, in all seriousness, the extra one-tenth of an ounce will not be noticed.

I didn't express myself perfectly in that last post .... I meant to make it shorter than my current CAD design of 140". I think the DIYG suggested length of 134" should be plenty.

Appreciate the input, keep it coming!

[oldpappy]

I'm glad you are doing this - this is my project for next winter. I appreciate you sharing your good work.

[sunkmail]

I'm glad you are doing this - this is my project for next winter. I appreciate you sharing your good work.

No Problem. I've learned a lot from the people here - it's my way of giving back a little. Plus I do like designing stuff. usually in sheet metal, so fabric is still fairly new to me.
(I have been designing stuff for my other hobby, scuba diving, for some time now.... www.sunkmailcreations.com, if anyone is curious)

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I did get around to shortening my RL a little. I went with 135". As my Hammock is 127" 'Ring-to-Ring', this gives me an even 4 inches on each side for overlap/coverage.

DIY Gear Tarp - Sunkmail Modification.pdf

Most of the other dimensions are different from the DIYG version, but it is still quite true to the original overall.

I haven't put any detail on for pole pockets, or any other reinforcements, since the examples on the DIYG design do such a good job explaining it all. (well, not the pole pockets, but there are other threads showing those.)

I think this is the version I am going to proceed with, but it will be a while before this gets to the top of my pile .... I need to do a couple of TQ's first. I'm just started cutting material, and my time is being stretched all over at the moment, so I expect it will take a while. I'll try to remember to take pictures of everything.

As there will be a delay, I'm still open to suggestions and comments.

Cheers,
Scott

edit - Not sure why the preview appears to be a black rectangle, but it is a PDF of the design. I figured it would be better resolution for anyone using the pattern themselves.

[sunkmail]

Hi Peoples,

Mouseskowitz asked about using narrower fabric (59") and how it would affect the design. I figured some of you may be interested in what I found out...

I changed the finished width to 116", to give a little room for the RL seam. Using my computer model, the only change I did was to shorten the door lengths by a couple of inches. The change isn't needed, per se, but will save a little weight, and have the same profile as the larger version.

I've uploaded a PDFs of the regular and 'Skinny' versions to my Album, and below.

DIY Gear Tarp - Sunkmail Modification.pdf Regular

DIY Gear Tarp - Sunkmail Modification - Skinny.pdf Skinny

Cheers,
Scott