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  1. #1
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Sil-Argon tarp and beak with question

    So I finally completed a new hex tarp (from DIY gear supply plans) out of Dutch's Sil-argon in brown. Here is a photo of it pitched inside out while I was seam sealing it.



    I also made a grizz beak for it, but when I added the beak the edge that was overlapping the tarp had some flop to it. I was thinking about cutting those 2 edges with a cat-cut instead of straight as I have it. It would seem like a 2" cat-cut would take the flop out. What do people think? Anyone experienced with grizz beaks out there?
    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

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  2. #2
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    That's a good looking tarp.

  3. #3
    Senior Member CountryRoads's Avatar
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    Awesome tarp! How much does it weigh? Sorry, can't answer your questions, no experience with cat cuts or beaks, just wanted to say, good work!

  4. #4
    Senior Member boulderv7's Avatar
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    Awesome job. Not sure about the grizz beak, but I would just start with a small cat cut, you can always take more off if it doesn't get rid of all the flop.
    My head is an animal

  5. #5
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Thanks for the compliments. Tarp with 35' continuous ridgeline and 4 tieouts with 1/8" shock cord loops in stuff sack 12.1 oz, add the Grizz beak with 4 more 1/8" shock cord loops (I may downsize these, 1/8" isn't necessary for the beak) and a clip in stuff sack and it's 15.8 oz

    I made a stuff sack a little larger than a nalgene and I can easily stuff the tarp and beak into it.



    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

  6. #6
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    Are you planning to leave the doors/'beak' at home for some trips?
    Since it's only a matter of a few ounces (I know... ) why not just sew the doors to the tarp?

    Nice clean job, BTW.

  7. #7
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VictoriaGuy View Post
    Are you planning to leave the doors/'beak' at home for some trips?
    Since it's only a matter of a few ounces (I know... ) why not just sew the doors to the tarp?

    Nice clean job, BTW.
    Yes, I would leave them at home in a lot of cases. But the other advantage is not to have to repitch the tarp if I chose the wrong end to put the single door. I have a full winter 1.3 oz/sq yd silnylon tarp for winter, this was to replace my hex tarp (my son has graciously agreed to take it off my hands). This one with the beak and all of the current cordage is 3.8 oz lighter than my older hex with it's cordage. So lighter, packs smaller with more coverage (beak) and better waterproofing is a win for me.
    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

  8. #8
    Senior Member Picaro's Avatar
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    I think the slack is coming from having a 90 degree seam on the top of the beak, and a cat angle on the tarp. Try pinching up the slack from the inside edge of the top of the beak. If thats it....not sure if a cat cut down the side will correct it, or whether you need work on the top.

  9. #9
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picaro View Post
    I think the slack is coming from having a 90 degree seam on the top of the beak, and a cat angle on the tarp. Try pinching up the slack from the inside edge of the top of the beak. If thats it....not sure if a cat cut down the side will correct it, or whether you need work on the top.
    I don't think that's it. Before I took things down I tried pitching the beak over the ridgeline and there was still flop in the same place. But it's a good thought, I may try pinching it at the top to see if I can remove the flop that way.
    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

  10. #10
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    Where did you get your beak plans? how do they attach?

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