Im working on a new karo TQ with a continuous footbox. Ive searched all over for a guide on how to do this but haven't been able to find anything. I do have an idea on how to do this but figured why reinvent the wheel. Anyone done this before?
Im working on a new karo TQ with a continuous footbox. Ive searched all over for a guide on how to do this but haven't been able to find anything. I do have an idea on how to do this but figured why reinvent the wheel. Anyone done this before?
What is a continuous footbox? Do you have any pictures of one?
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
I dont have any pics but its where the footbox is open to the rest of the top quilt so down can travel in and out of the footbox. Im trying to avoid a sewn through seam. I want the footbox to stay lofted as to not create a cold spot
So you basically want to run the baffles longitudinal, instead of crosswise? If so, the methodology would not be any different. You would just have longer baffles, but fewer of them, if I understand you correctly.
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
This is a karo step style TQ so the baffles run both ways but do not connect
Ahhh, karo! Just as you said in your original post! it's time for new glasses.
OK normally, the karo step baffles do NOT connect. At the point that they would "cross" each other, there is empty space. Lets say you have 10"x10" boxes; the baffles would be only about 6-7" long. This allows you to give the quilt a few shakes and move down to where you want it.
There are several YouTube videos on Karo step quilts that are quite good.
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
I haven't done it but id imagine you sew the foot box fabric to each shell side individually, then sew the perimeters together.
but back to the question of making the "continuous footbox" for the karo step quilt... I think I'd just recommend building it as a full rectangular quilt except adding the tab (probably out of a heavier denier fabric.. at least for the outer shell) and then plan your baffles as best you can.
This is kind of what I mean:
Side BC get's sewn to side CDE on each layer. Then sew the 2 layer's together.
You can also sew the foot box tab on, instead of cutting it from the blank - less wasted material.
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