problems with getting a consistent rolled hem on catenary curves.

[lokbot]

I'm trying to make a bridge hammock with cord channels instead of 1/2 webbing. I made a few attempts practicing rolled hems along the length of the cord channel and each time started looking nice, but by the end they where all twisted and ugly looking. I am going to take another run at it soon, and take more time carefully pinning the channel(Before this I had great luck freehanding all of my rolled hems).

I was wondering if people had much luck using a rolled hem foot on catenary curved edges. Any other suggestions?

[Camping With Ken]

I'm trying to make a bridge hammock with cord channels instead of 1/2 webbing. I made a few attempts practicing rolled hems along the length of the cord channel and each time started looking nice, but by the end they where all twisted and ugly looking. I am going to take another run at it soon, and take more time carefully pinning the channel(Before this I had great luck freehanding all of my rolled hems).

I was wondering if people had much luck using a rolled hem foot on catenary curved edges. Any other suggestions?

It's tricky to do... but my edges look similar to what you're describing. I used a ton of pins and sewed it slowly and carefully.

[simply_light]

I found that starting the hem and the long middle part are pretty easy, but getting that last 2' on the curve is the tricky part. Since I do a lot of them, pins are not an option, so mine are all free-handed. I don't have much of an issue with sil or the heavier fabrics, but when you get down to below 1.6 oz and especially the 1.1's it is quite common and difficult to control.

I found that putting a little snip every 4-6" in that last 2 foot alleviates the fabrics desire to get all curvey. It still won't be perfect, but it definitely helps. The snip is no more than an 1/8" max - that way it is still within the innermost part of the hem, stabilized by stitching, so there is minimal pull on the cut itself.

Also, pulling the fabric taut/straight as it goes through helps. It will still return to its natural curve, but it will look a lot nicer.

Finally, I always do two rows of sticthes on the hem. So, even if all you efforts fail, pulling it taut/straight & sewing that 2nd row of stitches, helps to stabilize that section of hem and it ends up looking pretty decent.

[New2trees]

I'm trying to make a bridge hammock with cord channels instead of 1/2 webbing. I made a few attempts practicing rolled hems along the length of the cord channel and each time started looking nice, but by the end they where all twisted and ugly looking. I am going to take another run at it soon, and take more time carefully pinning the channel(Before this I had great luck freehanding all of my rolled hems).

I was wondering if people had much luck using a rolled hem foot on catenary curved edges. Any other suggestions?

I just made my first DIY HH clone and a Hex Tarp.
And yes it is tricky I went slow and rolled as I went, I held about 8 inches at a time Slow and steady

[Ramblinrev]

First, make as small a hem as you can. Less fabric in the fold means less change in the arc radius means much smoother curve. Second, shorten the stitch length. The shorter stitch makes it easier to make the curve.

[hangnout]

I'm trying to make a bridge hammock with cord channels instead of 1/2 webbing.

Not really an answer to your question but maybe preventing another problem. What type of cord and will it stretch when loaded? If it does stretch you will hear the sound of threads popping right before .......

If you are using amsteel it will work but even it will change length when it is under load.

[Boston]

I've had the same issues, but it doesn't really bother me. I have thought you may be able to get a better appearing seam by starting at the apex of the curve, and working out toward the edge. The issue is you start folding on the bias, and over a long hem, the folded fabric stretches more then the unfolded fabric, and you start getting that twist appearance.

I roll a 1/2" hem for the channel, then use a zipper foot to sew the channel with the cord in it (like sewing piping). I the sew through the cord about 3-4" on each end to keep the fabric from slipping - there's no need to sew down the entire length of cord.

For reference I use Gutermann Tera Tex 35 thread for all my sewing.

[The Old Boot]

There's a technique of clipping the curve that will solve all the twisting and ugly. For 1'2 inch rolled hems expect to clip about 3/8" to achieve a nice clean fold. That means that the clipped area will all be inside the first fold and the stitch lines will more than adequately catch the fabric.

The more intense the cat cut the more often you will need to clip the curve. On a very gentle curve, clipping every 2 to 3" will suffice. On a tighter curve, you might have to clip every inch or closer.

As always practice on scraps until you get the hang of the technique.

[Hangs4Fun]

First, make as small a hem as you can. Less fabric in the fold means less change in the arc radius means much smoother curve. Second, shorten the stitch length. The shorter stitch makes it easier to make the curve.

I second that RR

[MAD777]

To add to this short story; work in short sections of 2 inches or less. As you fold each small section, make sure that section is folded perpendicular to the hem.