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  1. #1
    Member Swede2378's Avatar
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    Differential Karo Step Summer UQ

    Hello!

    After making a winter UQ with traditional baffles, I want to try my hand at a summer quilt. Being in Sweden limits my availability to down, so I want to be able to use bulk packaging. This led me to the Karo Step method. I am going with full length, 4 cm height (loft) and am trying to figure out the differential cut, and I think I got it now.

    I tried combining inches and centimeters, and for now I am going to explain it all in metric, if you want some conversions I can provide them.

    Inner shell will be 122cm wide, with seam allowance (4 cm) included. I want to put in three darts of 4 cm each on the short sides. This will give me 102cm when I'm done.

    Outer shell will be 142cm wide, 4 cm seam allowance, with four 6m darts, and two 4cm walls. This will also result in 102cm when I'm done. I know that 4cm is alot of seam allowance, but I had some problems with the winter quilt so I want to give myself some extra. This gives me 8 cm wider on the outer shell, to give me the differential.

    I tried to figure out how to make the lengthwise darts, but I decided to skip it, I didn't have them in my winter quilt, and I use "Shug loops", meaning that I sew in a loop in the middle of the long sides to attach a shock cord which goes over the ridgeline and lends some support to the length.

    I then plan on mapping out the Karo Step squares on the "darted" shells.

    I drew out the two layers accounting for the darts at the ends, and then mapped the Karo Step squares. My problem is that with the differential in the width, I will need different dimensions for where I sew on the baffle walls onto the outer shell. How do I calculate that?! There must be some formula to give me a measurement for the walls that run head to foot, I can imagine that they are a centimeter or so wider in the outer shell.

    If I just use the same measurements on the outer shell, won't that just give me more space on the sides of the quilt?

    I read somewhere that Karo Step is not recommended for differential cut UQs, but I read chickenwings post, just couldn't seem to get this specific information out of it.

    Going to be putting 150g of 860 down in it, according to the calculator (for traditional baffled quilts) should still be good down to 40F.
    Last edited by Swede2378; 06-02-2014 at 06:36.
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  2. #2
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    Sounds awesome! I only understand metrics but with all the converting I've been doing to understand the 'other' I don't understand your measurements.... haha.

    Do you have any photos of the build? I'm getting itchy trying to plan my Karo Step UQ after reading your post.
    Subbed for when you load pics or testing in the wild.

  3. #3
    Member Swede2378's Avatar
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    The build is still in the planning stages. Trying to get it down to the amount of down I want to order Will post pics on my progress when I get that far.
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  4. #4
    Member Swede2378's Avatar
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    So I have a few diagrams of how I plan on laying out the darts and the baffle walls. I have looked alot at cwhammocks Karo Step quilt, and have tried to apply his logic to my measurements, but in metric. Bit of a headache, but I think I understand how I am going to go about it, the Argon from Dutch will get here this weekend, so I hope to have a working sketch before that!

    Here are the three sketches I have done:

    DCKS UQ Inner darts.jpg

    This one shows the layout of the fabric, my measurements and the placement of the darts. This is the inner shell, the outer shell is a work in progress.

    DCKS UQ Outer w baffles.jpg

    This is the outer shell baffle placement, with the darts already finished.

    DCKS UQ - Inner w baffles.jpg

    This is the inner shell baffle placement after the darts are done.

    I went with darts on the short ends and skipped the darts on the long sides. Never used darts on the long sides before, and don't see the need for it. Any other opinions?

    The other question I have is if the baffle walls in the corners are too tight, but it looks like the down will be able to move around in that spot.

    I am using Argon 67 from Dutch and 250g of 860 down from extremtextil in Germany.

    Comments on my attempt at replicating cwhammocks design are appreciated! Would like to get the sketch done this week, in case my material arrives!
    Last edited by Swede2378; 06-11-2014 at 15:55.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Scotty Von Porkchop's Avatar
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    I cant offer any great insights as I tend to just wade in and see what happens, but I think that the 'boxes' of the karo steps seem very large for a summer quilt. I didn't notice what baffle height you are planning on ? Summer to me is an 3 - 5 cm baffle, in which case I'd do 15-20cm box sections (to avoid bulging)

    Keep us posted on how it turns out.

    (I'm thinking about a karo UQ but I have to admit the thought of differentials and darts on a summer quilt just seems too hard work and I just go sit down and think of things to BBQ )

  6. #6
    Member Swede2378's Avatar
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    5 cm baffle height. I was originally planning on doing a thinner, more "summer", like 10 C quilt, but since I am making one for my wife at the same time, she thinks that if one is to go through all that work, it should be a 0 C quilt I live in Sweden, summer nights can get down to 10 C, and for the 400 g I think she will weigh when done, I put in the extra 50 g of down. Now if I lived in Georgia, that would be a different quilt This way we can use it in May, when I exhange the -20C quilt.

    We have been using IX UQs the past few years, which are rated to 0 C and still get a chill in May/June. So yeah, it may be a little overkill, but it beats having to get up to go pee

    After rereading your post, I see the real point of your comment. 35cm is the 14" that chickenwing used in his quilt, but I believe he went with 3" baffles. Will it be that big a difference with 2" baffles? If I was to go with smaller boxes, they would have to be four across, I might be able to squeeze in 25cm boxes. Will have to try a sketch and see how it plays out lengthwise.

    Definately a more complicated project, but I hear it is easier to sew it then it is to plan it.
    Last edited by Swede2378; 06-11-2014 at 16:39.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Scotty Von Porkchop's Avatar
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    A 5cm baffle height seems just about perfect for what you're planning on. Its the distance between the baffles that could be a problem, I used, if memory serves, smaller boxes on 12cm high baffles for my winter quilt.

  8. #8
    Member Swede2378's Avatar
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    Would love to see a pic of your winter quilt for reference!

    Sketched out a draft, looks like six boxes lengthwise and four across, 25 cm diameter. Will have to use 30cm for the diameter of the head to foot baffles and see if it will still fit, but looking good so far.
    Last edited by Swede2378; 06-11-2014 at 16:50.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Scotty Von Porkchop's Avatar
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    Here it is looking a bit battered from my Austria trip (its about 6'5" long)

    DSC_0088.jpg


    There's a ripped baffle there too, I used a lightweight mesh that I shouldn't have

  10. #10
    Member Swede2378's Avatar
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    Looks like 6x4 squares, are you satisfied with how well it fit? Did you go with darts on the long sides?
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