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  1. #11
    Senior Member Redoleary's Avatar
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    [AIMG][/AIMG]I'm just thinking out loud here and I'm hardly an engineer to take this for what it's worth. How about if you set the horizontal bar on top of the vertical posts, then put your eyebolt on the horizontal bar just outside where it sets on the vertical, so at this point your hammock suspension is hanging straight down. Now if you're using 4x4 for the diagonal brace drill a hole it that directly below the upper attach point for your suspension to go thru (this is replacing the eyebolt on the vertical post on your drawing), I'm thinking this will transfer the load to the structure better and have less desire to fold the vert posts in but IDK?? Attached is a non scale, and poorly made, drawing of what I'm trying to say.

    Good luck,
    RED

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  2. #12
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    I give the original design using 2x4s a big thumbs up!

    IMHO, the horizontal bar should not be on top of the vertical posts, because it's purpose is to carry the compression load at the top of the vertical posts. Also, the gussets are needed only if your attachment points are significantly below the top of the vertical posts, to transfer the compression load and keep the vertical posts from bowing out away from the wall. A key part of this design, which is a good one in all respects, is that the vertical posts must be flush against a wall. Fastening the vertical posts to the wall can eliminate the need for gussets.

    If you can locate studs accurately, you can do away with the vertical posts, and use a wall stud instead. Since they are oriented edgewise to the load, they are less likely to bow, but you have to drill right into the center to fasten a ring. The position of the horizontal bar is critical, because it must rest against the studs that are serving as the vertical posts. In a well built structure, the horizontal bar may not be necessary. That is the case in my house, where three hammocks are hung from rings that are attached directly to wall studs. (I built the walls myself!)
    - MacEntyre
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  3. #13
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    An after thought...

    A hammock in my house is hung at one end from a hardwood 2x2 that has a ring bolt in it, at the preferred height. The 2x2 is screwed to a stud in the wall in several places, from the baseboard to the ceiling. A small amount of sheetrock was removed to make a recess for the nut on the back of the ring bolt.
    - MacEntyre
    "We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
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  4. #14
    Senior Member Redoleary's Avatar
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    When I hung full time in my apartment I just put eye bolts in the wall and called it good. I filled in the holes when I left, and the apartment maintenance guys never said anything about it. So unless you've got a gestapo maintenance crew there I doubt it will be an issue to just go right into the studs.

    I suggest the top bar on top of the vert posts so it's straight compression on the vert posts, and the top bar for the compressive forces of being in the hammock. I'm thinking a one legged turtlelady stand. In fact if you could put eye bolts in the ceiling and suspend the horizontal bar straight down from that, there would be no multiplication factor at the anchor points just half your weight at each eyebolt and the bar is there for compression, except now you've got a 12' long bar hanging in the middle of the room... probably not the look you're going for.
    Good luck,
    RED

    My Youtube Channel

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  5. #15
    Senior Member kayak4water's Avatar
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    My vote, if you can't bolt to studs and fill holes/paint later: Go with your original plan using 2x4s & see what happens. Place the eye bolts as close as possible to the 40" braces to reduce inward shift of the verticals. I predict your weight will still pull the verticals some. The wedged top rail will keep you out of trouble.

    I'm no engineer, either. I wanna see how well this works on your dime. :-)

    Red's scheme above seems to move the stress point to the bottom of the braces, which will pull the braces away from the verticals, whereas your plan will bring the verticals into the braces. I can't provide a force diagram from my touch--sorry. Anyone correct me, please?

  6. #16
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    Well, I suppose I am the engineer in this thread...

    To put it simply, you want the stresses to be in line with the grain of the wood. That's why the top bar should not be on top of the vertical posts. You want the horizontal bar to keep the vertical posts apart, not the walls.

    Of course, half of the stresses on the vertical posts are not in line with the grain. That is why the gussets are a good idea.

    Put the eye bolts anywhere you like, but the further from the top, the more the vertical posts will want to bend inwards. That's another reason the gussets are a good idea.

    No need to run lines through holes from the top, because that doesn't change anything.

    Red's suggestion of suspending a single horizontal bar from the ceiling, and hanging the hammock from that, is another excellent way to do it. It's just totally different from the idea proposed in post #1.

    As I said, the original idea is excellent!

    - MacEntyre
    - MacEntyre
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  7. #17
    Senior Member the_lorax's Avatar
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    That is pretty much the exact design I've been using for the past month or so and it works very well. Just upgraded to a 90x156 tablecloth hammock last week. Mine is 11.5 ft long and 7 ft tall made from 2x4s. One of these days I'll get another set of straps and move that connection point but so far hooking on at the base of the braces has been just fine (I'm only ~160#).
    tmp_11522-hammock stand-1696322092.jpg

  8. #18
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    Good design

    I agree with MacEntyre on the horizontal compression beam. If it bows out or in (bends) excessively, bolt on metal bars of steel or aluminum up to 8' long overlapping if necessary or wooden ones. Also add a flat piece of wood or metal at the base of each vertical beam to protect the floor especially if it is carpeted and your friends are heavy. Many newly constructed homes especially apartments have very weak studs that barely hold up the roof so pulling hundreds of pounds of force on them at a diagonal is a little risky. Could leave more than a small hole for spackle and paint to patch.
    Therefore, I think your design is very good especially being wedged in the corners. Happy hanging.
    PS not saying you might date someone obese but a football player linesman friend or two might come over and stress test it thinking they are doing you a favor...like those videos on news, AFV, YT etc of entire wedding party on pier or wood deck taking photos then it collapses. Hopefully your friends have more common sense.
    Edit: also obvious to you and others but if eyebolts needed to go higher double and move diagonal joists to outside edges of support beams.
    Last edited by ntxkayakr; 06-11-2014 at 06:57. Reason: PS and edit both and all obvious comments my 2 cents

  9. #19
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    What should I do if a beam on the wall cannot go down to the floor because of the presence of a heating device?

  10. #20
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silvano View Post
    What should I do if a beam on the wall cannot go down to the floor because of the presence of a heating device?
    Screw it to the wall, directly into a stud, in a dozen places.
    - MacEntyre
    "We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
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