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  1. #1
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    End Cap ephinany or....

    The end caps are giving me fits. Im fighting to the bitter end to find a better (easier) was to do the end caps rather than measure, cut darts, sew and then sew in the caps. Eliminating as much geometry as possible has lead me to this..... Using a piece of rope to mark the curve.

    I remembered Grizz mention that some folks hang their pattern or fabric on a wall and use a piece of rope to mark their curve cut. So why not take a piece of rope the width of the body at the poles and do the same thing for the end caps? Make 2 marks on your fabric the distance between your poles. Then take the rope, that is the length of the width of the body, and mark your curve. I suppose the same thing could be accomplished with tent poles, but given the relatively short distance, the rope may be easier.

    I tested my theory out by using a piece of 57" rope and holding it at the pole corners of my mega bridge and it rested nicely on the curve of the body of the fabric. Alot some for sewing and what not and it should work.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    ...Make 2 marks on your fabric the distance between your poles. Then take the rope, that is the length of the width of the body, and mark your curve. I suppose the same thing could be accomplished with tent poles, but given the relatively short distance, the rope may be easier...
    This is the sort of thing I have done. I have roll hemmed the hammock ends and left the end caps off so I could experiment with spreader bar widths. When I was ready to add end caps I held a sheet of card board up to the ends and traced the shapes. Be sure to add for hem allowances.

    I found that it was difficult to get the end and hammock to match up as the end would tend to "grow" as it was stitched in place.

    The easy solution was to make the end cap arch longer and "dart" it to fit. Example...12" longer requires 3 darts (may not be correct terminology) taking up 4" each. I would pin these clustered toward the bottom and before sewing the third one to the body, I would check to see if it needed adjusting to make it all match up. It really wasn't much trouble and a big benefit is you get a small pocket at the head and foot ends.

    IMG_4538 (Medium)noted.jpg

    Because the hammock ends were already hemmed, I also roll hemmed the end cap edges and just stitched one hem on top of the other.

  3. #3
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Interesting. Thats a good idea.

  4. #4
    Member Camping With Ken's Avatar
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    This is exactly how I did the end caps for my bridge hammock and it worked fairly well.

    02.JPG 03.JPG 04.JPG 05.JPG

    The whole hammock is far from perfect, but it's exceptionally roomy and very, very comfy.
    I make gear... lots and lots of gear.
    http://campingwithken.com/

  5. #5
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Ive been meaning to do this, and finally did. I have access to AutoCad and a plotter at work. So I made a template to cut the end caps from a single piece of fabric. Once the glue dries, Ill hit it with the jig saw.

    P1030252.JPG

  6. #6
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    The easiest way I found is the example in the picture below The black is grosgrain channel with shockcord. Always forms the "perfect" endcap without having to sew it into the hammock body.





    Added picture of UL bridge with this type of end cap

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hangnout; 08-15-2014 at 18:24.

  7. #7
    Senior Member krshome's Avatar
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    Wow ! Hangout thats amazing how do you find the arc? Its so simple its genius. Can you do a bug net on that design?

  8. #8
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hangnout View Post
    The easiest way I found is the example in the picture below The black is grosgrain channel with shockcord. Always forms the "perfect" endcap without having to sew it into the hammock body.





    Added picture of UL bridge with this type of end cap
    8ozbridge.jpg
    I tried this, but a different method that did not work out well. I thought about using grossgrain to form the channel, but I didnt think it would be pliable enough to "scrunch" up.

    krs, all you would need to know is the depth of the arc. In easier therms, the deepest point, which would naturally fall at the center of your spreaders, between the spreader and the body. The dimensions I am using and spreader ratio give me an 11.43" arc depth.

    I could feasibly use the template I made to cut the arc in the end of the fabric. I may give that a try. I am only working with a difference of 11" between the body width and spreader width.

  9. #9
    Senior Member krshome's Avatar
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    Thanks Opie I think I'll stick to the Grizz end caps. If you want me to make you some send me your measurements and I will make them for you. I have made so many that they are cake for me.

  10. #10
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Thanks for the offer... I have to get my own method down. I would much prefer a no-sew method. But I want to be able to eventually add a zippered bug net. The shock corded end caps would be possible, but not as clean as an end cap that has a straight line.

    The template at least guarantees consistency and repeatability. And since I already have the CAD file, its easy to modify for different dimensions.

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