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  1. #181
    FJRpilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    Alright, first I want to thank everyone that offered advice and steered me towards the older machines. Im pretty happy with my purchases.

    First up is the White machine.The cabinet is in good condition as is the machine. It had quite a few feet, lots of bobbins, the manual and even the original sales receipt from 1972. Cost then was $199 for the machine. I paid $40.

    Next up was a lucky find. I decided to cruise CL one more time before heading to pick up the white. I found this machine just 30 minutes south of where I picked up the white. Nicest little old Polish lady that bought the machine new and its in good condition minus a couple small aesthetic issues. Ill get them taken care of. Not as many accessories or manual, she said it was in a rental house of hers and the tenants misplaced most of the extras. I did not find it a big deal because the machine and table are in pretty good condition. She was asking $95. I offered $60 and we settled on $75.
    Sweet.... Good score!
    The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good.

    - Samuel Johnson

  2. #182
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    My advice is don't start spraying solvent all over the guts. It's not needed. Varnished oil doesn't cause any problem on the middle of shafts, etc.

    I have never had to remove wiring to free up and lube a machine.

    You only need to use DROPS of solvent (kerosene, alcohol, kroil) where there is metal to metal contact (bushings, pivot points, gears, etc). I use the same flip top bottles we use to carry alcohol for camping stoves for kerosene and alcohol.

    If you just have to pretty up the shafts, use a strip of cloth with solvent and use a shoe shine motion to quickly remove the varnished oil.

    On the outside, use rags or cotton balls wetted with mild solvent and clean small areas at a time.

    You are working on sewing machines....loose the engine cleaner/power washer mindset.

  3. #183
    squidbilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    My advice is don't start spraying solvent all over the guts. It's not needed. Varnished oil doesn't cause any problem on the middle of shafts, etc.

    I have never had to remove wiring to free up and lube a machine.

    You only need to use DROPS of solvent (kerosene, alcohol, kroil) where there is metal to metal contact (bushings, pivot points, gears, etc). I use the same flip top bottles we use to carry alcohol for camping stoves for kerosene and alcohol.

    If you just have to pretty up the shafts, use a strip of cloth with solvent and use a shoe shine motion to quickly remove the varnished oil.

    On the outside, use rags or cotton balls wetted with mild solvent and clean small areas at a time.

    You are working on sewing machines....loose the engine cleaner/power washer mindset.
    Great advice ^ I'll be watching for your intro post the vintage Necchi Group.

    After you post an intro, you can request to join the sewing circle and have access to more info like service manuals and such.

  4. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by squidbilly View Post
    Great advice ^ I'll be watching for your intro post the vintage Necchi Group.

    After you post an intro, you can request to join the sewing circle and have access to more info like service manuals and such.
    I joined up a couple of years ago....now it's opie's turn.

  5. #185
    opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    My advice is don't start spraying solvent all over the guts. It's not needed. Varnished oil doesn't cause any problem on the middle of shafts, etc.

    I have never had to remove wiring to free up and lube a machine.

    You only need to use DROPS of solvent (kerosene, alcohol, kroil) where there is metal to metal contact (bushings, pivot points, gears, etc). I use the same flip top bottles we use to carry alcohol for camping stoves for kerosene and alcohol.

    If you just have to pretty up the shafts, use a strip of cloth with solvent and use a shoe shine motion to quickly remove the varnished oil.

    On the outside, use rags or cotton balls wetted with mild solvent and clean small areas at a time.

    You are working on sewing machines....loose the engine cleaner/power washer mindset.
    Yeah....I hear ya.

    What I did was put 99% Isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle and sprayed all the guts liberally. I used the pressure from the spray bottle to blast off all the old semi-dried grease from the nylon gears. Worked pretty well and I turned the hand crank and sprayed again. It worked as I could see the discolored alcohol coming out on the towel. Then I applied lithium grease to the nylon parts and reoiled the machine. It feels much better.

    That was the white machine. Next is the Necchi.
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  6. #186
    opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    I joined up a couple of years ago....now it's opie's turn.
    I joined this morning. Havent done an intro post though.
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  7. #187
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    As I recall, lithium grease and other general/automotive greases are not the best for plastic sewing machine gears.

    Tri-Flow is frequently recommended. As with all sewing machine lubes...use sparingly.

  8. #188
    opie's Avatar
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    It looked like thats what was on it prior. It was all dried and caked like lithium grease tends to do with age.

    So I should have just oiled it instead? I do have sewing machine oil.
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  9. #189
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    All kinds of things get put on sewing machines. My niece used Pam cooking spray for a while. Took my brother in law forever to get that machine working again.

    I think the thought was that no one knows what the long term effect of automotive greases on the old plastics might be. I'd just clean it up and re-grease with the tri flow or singer sewing machine grease months from now when it needs greased again.

  10. #190
    opie's Avatar
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    Also, Lithium grease is basically just soap.
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