Passing this along. Found while working on some grizz beaks.
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-...hread_id=33549
Passing this along. Found while working on some grizz beaks.
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-...hread_id=33549
Thanks for that link.
One interesting finding of the 'tests' was that zig-zag stitching produced a stronger product than straight stitch, when making the ripstop fabric 'straps' for break testing.
BTW, if you want max strength when sewing webbing, parallel lines of stitching lengthwise are stronger than either the cross (bar tacks) or box pattern. Bar tacks and boxes look better, though... IMO.
Interesting read. I'm guessing that the reason that the zig-zag was "stronger" is that it was able to compensate for the stretch of the nylon. If you want more information on the strength of different stitching patterns on webbing, look about 2/3 of the way down this article.
Thanks, interesting. A thought though - wouldn't you want a weaker seam so that it fails - or the tie-out itself - rather than the tarp fabric?
The Hanging Viking
Trip reports:
A fishing mission
So this trip didn't turn out the way I anticipated..
A new hanger being born? Three nights on Bruksleden from Västerås April 2014
Do two one nighters a two nighter make?
The Tail of Two Trout - Six Nights Fishing in the Wild, North of the Arctic Circle
I agree.
Anyway, most of the time my tieouts are attached to pegs, and they never seem to be very firmly attached to the ground unless they have rocks piled on top. I've had plenty of pulled pegs (mostly on tents, many with the old and useless skewer pegs) over the years, never a torn tieout....yet.
'First time for everything', though.... and with the end ties on the hammock tarp attached to trees there's more chance to break something.
Once the UV gets to work on light tarp fabric, it's gonna rip at some time...hopefully I'll be smart enough to retire it before that happens....
Bookmarks