Is it possible to use a thread injector to sew webbing? How do you do it? Do you need to use a special type of thread to preserve the webbing strength?
Is it possible to use a thread injector to sew webbing? How do you do it? Do you need to use a special type of thread to preserve the webbing strength?
For reference I have a Janome Memory Craft 9500, if that means anything.
You can certainly sew most webbing with a good-quality domestic sewing machine, IMO.
However, this doesn't mean that you can make maximum-strength sewn connections - up to the theoretical max for the webbing, if you are using heavy webbing.
Things I would sew: tree straps, hammock suspension, tarp suspension, pack straps, belt for pants, etc..
Things I leave to the pros - climbing slings, climbing harness, slings for lifting freight, etc...
You get the picture.
Limitations of most home machines are:
Bobbin can't handle very heavy thread
Upper tension mechanism can't get tight enough
Presser foot releases tension if you try to put thick material underneath.
YMMV..
What sort of webbing projects are you planning?
Advice from one who has been there: Don't use the 'family' sewing machine! "What was that loud noise from my sewing machine?"
Cool. Is there a special type of thread and machine needle that I should use?Originally Posted by VictoriaGuy
You can certainly sew most webbing with a good-quality domestic sewing machine, IMO.
However, this doesn't mean that you can make maximum-strength sewn connections - up to the theoretical max for the webbing, if you are using heavy webbing.
Things I would sew: tree straps, hammock suspension, tarp suspension, pack straps, belt for pants, etc..
Things I leave to the pros - climbing slings, climbing harness, slings for lifting freight, etc...
You get the picture.
Limitations of most home machines are:
Bobbin can't handle very heavy thread
Upper tension mechanism can't get tight enough
Presser foot releases tension if you try to put thick material underneath.
YMMV..
What sort of webbing projects are you planning?
Advice from one who has been there: Don't use the 'family' sewing machine! "What was that loud noise from my sewing machine?"
I'm making a hammock seat of sorts. It's actually an add-on for my rock climbing harness so that it won't cut off circulation when I'm climbing trees. So kind of like a DIY tree climbing harness.
I have about the cheapest machine made and I sew webbing straps. Of course, I have to wear earplugs due to the noise my machine makes while doing it.
I sew about 8 runs nearly parallel to the long axis of the strap, actually a slight zig-zag starting near one edge, going for 2 inches, raise the presser foot and turn the strap the opposite way, repeat 8 times in that slight zig-zag pattern until reaching the other edge.
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
Since it's a small project, I'd hit the local fabric/sewing store and pick up a spool of Gutermann 100% polyester heavy thread (there's only 30m on the spool vs 100m for 'normal' weight) and see if your machine will sew with it.
Lots of machines will 'make stitches' but when you take a close look they aren't very tight and well-formed. You'll probably need lots of top tension to pull the stitches tight. Sailrite used to sell extra-strong tension springs for making sails on home machines.
You'll need a needle with a bigger eye to handle the thicker thread, so probably a 100-110-120 gauge needle?
You can always back up your machine stitching with heavy hand stitching - either with a sailmakers needle and palm or a Speedy Stitcher.
As long as you'll still be tied in to your harness, that seems like a pretty safe project. (a.k.a. belay seat?).
We will demand pictures of your project!
The short version is that there is a difference in recommended stitch patterns depending on if you are joining two ends or making a end loop. The basic math is tensile strength of the thread x clamping friction (varies by thread and material but 125% seems to be a safeish number) x number of stitches. I've heard that something like a Gutermann Mara 70 will break around 3.5 lb and a Tera 40 closer to 10 lb. If you want the long version, read the section on sewing webbing about 2/3 of the way down this.
Last edited by Mouseskowitz; 08-07-2014 at 11:42.
http://www.bethandevans.com/load.htm
Fixed it for you.
I just use the zig zag stitch set to its widest position and set the stitch length as short as will still allow the machine to feed. With my Janome, this meant a long stitch length and going over the same area 3 to 4 times. With my newer (to me) white and necchi, I can do it in 1 pass with the stitch length set to 0 I can help manually feed the material in to control the length.
The catch may be, where/how are you going to attach it to the harness? What harness are you using.
I gave up on rock climbing harnesses and went to a tree climbing harness....comfy.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks