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  1. #1
    Senior Member Mumbles's Avatar
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    Another Spreader Bar Question

    Absolutely love my Ridge Runner, DL Multicam, dual door spindrift sock and when I tuck it under my multicam 12x10 tarp I really feel like I can be hanging and be nearly invisible.

    The length of the spreader bars is something that I'd like to adjust. I realize the black spreader bar tubing is the same for the two foot sections. I realize that the black spreader bar tubing is the same for the longer two head sections. What I would like is for all of these pieces to be the same length (including the protruding inner sleeves).

    Has anyone created a set of bars that has total length symmetry (not just the outer tubing)? I'm thinking two identical length bars at the foot end and three identical length pieces at the head end. I think this will allow the bar pieces to pack a bit better that what I have now, which is a standard set of five different length pieces.

    If you've done this, or thought of doing this, what lengths did you settle on to get the standard spreader bar lengths, yet better matching length sections?

    Thanks in advance.
    Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the strength to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Boston's Avatar
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    You can do it. I believe the spreader bar's WB uses are just 0.625" Easton Expedition Aluminum Tent Poles. You can get all the components to make your own at QuestOutfitters.com.

    I would make sure you aren't joining the pole's in the center, however. So if you want equal length, use 3 section's each bar. The reason is bending stress is highest in the center, and the join will be the weakest part of the pole.

    So I think the head bar on a RR is 40", and the foot is 30". The inserts to join the poles extend about 2". So I'd do:

    Head: Center section: 14.5". Side sections: 12.75" (+2" for insert protrusion). You could make it exactly equal, but I like to work with round number's.
    Foot: Center section: 11.5". Side sections: 9.25" (+2" for insert protrusion).

    Also, if you're a light weight like me (~160lbs), you might shave some weight and use the 0.49" poles. I use them successfully in my DIY bridges.
    Last edited by Boston; 08-14-2014 at 15:59.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Jshep420's Avatar
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    Love my wbrr and spindrift.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Mumbles's Avatar
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    Thanks Boston. I'm well beyond the days of 165#! I may just have to try that project myself. I'm somewhat handy, but awfully lazy these days!
    Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the strength to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference.

  5. #5
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    The limiting factor is the end cap-------you can only spread it out so far before the end cap is pulled tight. I got around this with my no net ridge runnerby carefully taking out the stitches attatching the end cap at the foot end, and replaced it with an adjustable end cap. (pretty simple, just a half circle piece of cloth, with a drawstring on the curved end--so you can cinch up the end cap depending on how wide you want your spreader bar to be) I use trekking poles for spreader bars so its really easy to adjust the spreader width. By making the hammock wider, you gain some room (great for extra shoulder space, or a little extra room at the foot end) but you sacrifice some stability. (this mod will not work with the net version of the RR) Good luck!
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


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