Great adaptation, Will! This is nice. Thanks for the details.
I'm assuming the eye-bolts are only pressure tight against the rails - that you didn't drill more holes for those, just the two for the end pins in the top elbows?
Great adaptation, Will! This is nice. Thanks for the details.
I'm assuming the eye-bolts are only pressure tight against the rails - that you didn't drill more holes for those, just the two for the end pins in the top elbows?
Correct, Aaron. The eyebolts MUST be snugged. It eases assembly, and the "feet" can rotate. I think it adds a little stiffness, too.
I considered drilling holes for the eyebolts, but I think parts would have to be labelled to line up. I need to do an extended hang to see how much things shift.
Here's the pieces:
And a tee fitting for scale
From this state, it took less than three minutes to assemble the stand and attach the hammock.
That's a very respectable stand and it came in at a good price. Love the tees and elbows.
Nice.
Some say I'm apathetic, but I don't care. - Randy
Will, out of curiosity, how big of a boy are you? You being the crash test dummy, and all.
Dave
"Loneliness is the poverty of self; solitude is the richness of self."~~~May Sarton
http://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=snap+buttons
We've been using them to connect the 4' mil surplus poles for a couple of years. Connect the two sections and drill them together, then the snap button just slides into place.
See posts 679 and 680...https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...l=1#post854544
I hover around 190 lbs, og.
I referenced the McMaster part number for the spring buttons. You need to buy correct size for tubing. On that note, every hole I drilled for buttons and pins were 3/8".
Willfcc, the Spurtle stand looks great and I'm planning to build one. Your pictures and instructions have been most helpful. What are your thoughts on cutting the vertical poles in half. This would make every segment 4 feet or less. It would be much easier to transport. The 2 vertical segments could be stabilized with a spring button. I would think the pole would still be strong enough. Your thoughts? Of course this would mean having to buy a 4th fence rail in order to have an adequate number of tapered ends.
Hi, act.
One of my vertical poles IS split, with a button. I figured if the top rail joints can handle the compression force of the loaded hammock, then splitting the vertical poles are fine, too. I believe they're only carrying half the load.
Using only three fence rails, I had 21" left over. With four fence rails, you'll end up with more than one rail in leftover pieces.
I ordered the buttons and got them in 1 day. Makes it easy to assemble and hang the pole without it falling apart.
For the OP, is there a reason you used the open-ended elbows instead of the closed-ended ones? Also, I see Tarps.com also has a tube connector. Have you ever used that? It might work out for splitting the uprights.
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