Question for bridge hammock users

[GrizzlyAdams]

An as-yet-unmentioned benefit of a RL on bridge (and I always use one) is analogous to 'setting the sag' on a gathered end hammock.

A bridge hammock is 'flat' because the shape of the suspension arcs pulls the middle of the body up. All other things being equal, the farther apart you pull the tops of the suspension triangles, the more the middle is pulled up before loading, up to the point where you have pulled the ends apart so far that you don't see any curve at all in the side suspension and the body of the hammock is pulled tautly level between the side suspension webbing (or cord) in the middle. If you don't pull the ends apart far enough your bottom sags in the middle and you're in a concave bathtub.

So there is a region of distance between the apexes of the suspension triangles that is a sweet spot for flatness. This will depend on the depth of the suspension triangle and the weight of the occupant. A user can dial in that sweet spot and 'set it' with a ridgeline that will give consistent results every time.

I do pretty well at eyeballing this distance; my main uses for the RL is as a place for organizers and to hang my headlamp to get some light when I'm getting settled in for the night, and in bug season, as something that pulls up the bugnet.

[BillyBob58]

What Acer said up above. Also:

An as-yet-unmentioned benefit of a RL on bridge (and I always use one) is analogous to 'setting the sag' on a gathered end hammock.

A bridge hammock is 'flat' because the shape of the suspension arcs pulls the middle of the body up. All other things being equal, the farther apart you pull the tops of the suspension triangles, the more the middle is pulled up before loading, up to the point where you have pulled the ends apart so far that you don't see any curve at all in the side suspension and the body of the hammock is pulled tautly level between the side suspension webbing (or cord) in the middle. If you don't pull the ends apart far enough your bottom sags in the middle and you're in a concave bathtub.

So there is a region of distance between the apexes of the suspension triangles that is a sweet spot for flatness. This will depend on the depth of the suspension triangle and the weight of the occupant. A user can dial in that sweet spot and 'set it' with a ridgeline that will give consistent results every time.

I do pretty well at eyeballing this distance; my main uses for the RL is as a place for organizers and to hang my headlamp to get some light when I'm getting settled in for the night, and in bug season, as something that pulls up the bugnet.

Sometimes I have a RL on my bridges, but oft times I don't bother. Because of that "region of distance" Griz mentions, I find my bridges (for sure my JRBs and probably my WBRR) to be like my Claytor: not very critical of having an exact distance between the rings. Particularly on my older JRB which does not have a zippered net to have to worry about to much stress on the net. But if the distance does need to be exact, it must be easy to find, because on both JRBs I often use this quick method: have the net on a closed up, pull net snug, then back off a few inches. This always seems to get er done comfort wise, and keeps the nets in an OK position. A RL would be more certain each time, but mostly I have not needed one.

As has been said, that WB has lots of storage so you are not going to need RL organizers. Plus with any of them, I often have a pack/sack by the hammock for anything more than I can put into the little storage pockets on the JRBs and can easily reach out to get something on the rare occasion I need to. But, to hang a light a RL is mighty handy, and also to keep the net up on my JRB UL, otherwise I have to pull the hammock a little tighter than I really should.

Here is a RL in use on the BMBH UL:


The net is not suspended, but I have plenty of room for my taste anyway. But, the RL may be set so the hammock is pulled a bit longer than recommended, otherwise the net is too close to my face. For long term use I would instead shorten the RL a few inches and hang the net from the RL/Grip Clip, and maybe use the inside of the Grip Clip for hanging a reading light:
Although, there did not seem to be any stress on the zipper with this set up. Also, using no RL and just adjusting the net somewhat taught then backing off a few inches works good also, adequate face/net clearance and no zipper stress. So, either way:

[BillyBob58]

Speaking of using a RL to set the consistently right distance/tension on a hammock, or in this case not using one, does this look a little too tight to you guys?


Watch out, it's a trick question!

[BrianWillan]

I use a ridgeline on my "winter" bridge hammock (no net) solely for the purpose as an attachment point for my shock cord underquilt lifters at the mid point of the quilt.

Depending on how deep your bridge hammock is, you may not need a ridgeline to keep your bug net far from your face. I found this to be case for the original BMBH hammock that I used for a while.

Cheers

Brian

[Acer]

ok,,,all of your answers now have me playing with a RL on a WBRR...will try it and see if I like it starting tonite. It has been said curiousity killed the cat?

[Demeter]

Speaking of using a RL to set the consistently right distance/tension on a hammock, or in this case not using one, does this look a little too tight to you guys?


Watch out, it's a trick question!

Waiting for the answer, BillyBob58!!!

[Acer]

Looks to me, like ya did a double back flip and landed on the ground.

[gmcttr]

Speaking of using a RL to set the consistently right distance/tension on a hammock, or in this case not using one, does this look a little too tight to you guys?


Watch out, it's a trick question!

Not at all considering the amount I would expect the uprights of that stand to flex inward.

All of that padding underneath indicates either a coward or a wise man.

[BillyBob58]

Waiting for the answer, BillyBob58!!!

Looks to me, like ya did a double back flip and landed on the ground.

Not at all considering the amount I would expect the uprights of that stand to flex inward.

All of that padding underneath indicates either a coward or a wise man.

Ding, ding, ding, we have a winner! Yep, Gmcttr, that stand flexes like crazy, causing various amounts of grief with various hammocks. With my Claytor No Net for some reason, it is irrelevant. With my WBRR, I have to add an length extension which seems to add leverage and causes even more flex, enough that the ground level center bar will hit the ground and lift the ends unless I put the thing on blocks! So I basically never use this stand with that hammock. If I use that hammock I usually just hike to where there are trees of the right distance.

With all other hammocks, it is a matter of experimentation to see how much tension/sagI should start with to end up about right. I have used a strong RL to pre-flex the stand, but it is usually not enough, my weight can always flex it some more, sometimes a good bit, then I just have a sagging RL in my face. With this BMBH (either one) it seems to work best if I start off with way too much distance between the outer rings, then when it flexes it all seems to be about right. Sometimes I tighten and get in to find it is too loose(maybe the net is in my face or quilts are screwy), get out and tighten some more then it seems about right. It's all real easy to get right with trees though, even without a RL.

Oh, and when it comes to maybe falling on that un-padded steel bar, I have always been a coward!

[Acer]

I hate to say this, but the past couple of nites sleeping with a RL,,I seem to be getting a better lay and a awesome nite's sleep. I think its a little flatter lay. Will keep using it for a couple of more nites and take it off and see if there is any difference. I had to keep getting in and out of the RR and adjusting the RL till it was taunt enough as when I kept getting in the hammock, the RL would go loose as all get out. Once it was tight and me laying in the hammock, I quit adjusting and tighting the RL after adding alittle more tension to where you could twang it like a banjo string. Its definitely different and I think flatter as far as the lay.