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  1. #11
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    I know you are talking about door "tie-outs" rather than closures because the Superfly might only have loops at the bottom of the doors. But just pulling those bottom loops together with a "button" and staking the resulting tarp side ends out snug, might be enough.

    As mentioned in the tread (in this sub-forum) about the JRB Universal, that tarp - and maybe others or those modified by 2QZQ - have loops down the length of the door for closure. For those, I bought some plastic barrel toggles. they are like a wooded "barrel" button you might see on a jacket, but they are bigger; maybe 1.5 inches (don't have one in front of me). There are two holes in the center and I ran some cord through them and tied a loop. I used the loop to larks head the "buttons to the loops on one side of the doors. The button closes the door using the loops on the other side as a button hole. As far as "stake out" - I just use a regular guy line. I'll be experimenting with Dutch's tarp worms this summer so I may end up with some kind of bungee at each corner of the tarp. But if the sides are pulled out and snug, the door - with "button" closure is pretty secure already.

  2. #12
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    Superfly door tieouts..

    Short piece of shock cord, to a zingit mini ucr, with micro cord as the core.. with a micro biner at the end. Micro cord is long enough to clip to the opposing door, to that doors ground corner or that corners ground stake. Also long enough to clip to the door at the opposite end to clip them open.

    Pics are with the prototype which had the shock cord at the outboard end just before the micro biner.. I have since changed it as noted above. Click the pic below for more images....

    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
    Bob's brother-in-law

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikekiM View Post
    Superfly door tieouts..

    Short piece of shock cord, to a zingit mini ucr, with micro cord as the core.. with a micro biner at the end. Micro cord is long enough to clip to the opposing door, to that doors ground corner or that corners ground stake. Also long enough to clip to the door at the opposite end to clip them open.

    Pics are with the prototype which had the shock cord at the outboard end just before the micro biner.. I have since changed it as noted above. Click the pic below for more images....

    Brilliant design but, it seems WAY over-engineered. What advantage does this provide shock cord alone?
    Questioning authority, Rocking the boat & Stirring the pot - Since 1965

  4. #14
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCDave View Post
    Brilliant design but, it seems WAY over-engineered. What advantage does this provide shock cord alone?

    Since all of my ground corners and my ridge lines use the same mini-ucr setup, there is huge benefit in keeping everything the same.

    Having used shock cord alone, I found I needed to use too heavy of a gauge shock cord to keep the doors from flapping. So, the shock cord on each door is only long enough (maybe 6") to add some trip-protection which seems to happen more with my doors than the ground corners. Additionally, the shock cord had to be way longer if I want to connect the doors open, head end to foot end.

    With the current setup it's far easier. And, while I have plenty of reflective shock cord, it's all 3/16" which is heavier than needed... reflective micro cord wins here too.

    Plus I saved 0.0427 grams by using micro cord instead of shock cord!! ;-)

    I don't find them over engineered even a little. I mean.. it's a ucr, with shock cord and a micro biner.

    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
    Bob's brother-in-law

  5. #15
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    The method for securing the doors out of the way when not needed is the same wether you want them folded to the outside or underside of the tarp. Basically doors on opposite ends are connected together using a length of cord, shockcord would be easiest because if the length is right you wouldn't have to adjust or tie it. With the door folded back the door reaches just past the panel pull, leaving probably about 4 feet to span to connect the 2 doors, a 2' piece of most shockcord should stretch to 4'. After reading this thread I may consider adding two short pieces of shockcord for this purpose as they could be used as the door guyline as well

  6. #16
    Senior Member
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    Superfly Door Tieouts

    Quote Originally Posted by MikekiM View Post
    ...long enough to clip to the opposing door, to that doors ground corner [s]or that corners ground stake[/s]. Also long enough to clip to the door at the opposite end to clip them open.
    I haven't figured out my doors yet. I want only a shock cord loop on each door (4 total), probably closed with a free hook rather than a knot, to do all of the above.



    I may then add to my stake bag a couple of Lineloc hooks with some cord installed to snap into two doors to stake them directly/separately to the ground if needed.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #17
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    These are the micro biners or mitten hooks I am using on the door tie outs.. They can clip to opposing door's tri-ring, the opposing ground stake, or to the opposite end door to clip the doors open. I also have a small micro cord loop tied to the side panel pulls so I can pull one door open and clip it to the opposite ends panel pull independent of all the other doors.

    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
    Bob's brother-in-law

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