Tarp to ridge line hardware

[Mouseskowitz]

You replied before I finished my thought with the extra wrap or 2.

You may want to make a loop with a double fisherman's knot to use as the Klemheist or prussik knot since it would be thinner.

I am wondering a little but if there is too much line to make it work right with my current set up. It would seem that they make aluminum key rings, rust wouldn't be an issue then.

[Floridahanger]

Keep in mind that aluminum may not be strong enough if too small, like a small, non-titanium biner.

Luckily enough, they may be inexpensive enough to do a few fail tests on them.

Example, I use mason's line rated at 25~35lbs or so for my prussiks, but, that's on CLR under my tarp. I would use zing-it instead if I had a CLR over my tarp. I wouldn't trust the mason's line for that.

[hutzelbein]

For a couple of years, I used a CLR with prussiks, figure 9 and knot bone. When using the CLR under my tarp it was OK, until I found that water was running down the line in strong rain and splashed my hammock and underquilt. So I started using the CLR over the tarp. This solved the water issue, but I also had prussik slippage. I could never get the tarp as taut with the prussiks as I would have liked anyways. And after one night, the prussiks also slipped a bit. Not much, but enough for the tarp to be saggier than the night before. I switched to a split ridgeline and Stingerz. Never looked back. I don't think you can get the tarp that taut with prussiks. You simply can't pull them that far. And the line hasn't slipped once.

[Passinthru]

To keep the pull on the prussics in a straight line rather than at a downward angle you could run the CRL thru the end loops of your tarp and then prussic as usual. Or - a small 'S'-hook in the end loop that hooks up over the CRL to keep the corner of the tarp close to the CRL. That's what I am currently doing.

[SilvrSurfr]

I kinda thought the prusiks were supposed to slip in high winds to avoid tarp damage. The only time I have slippage (my CRL is over the tarp) is in dry, non-windy conditions.

[Mouseskowitz]

I kinda thought the prusiks were supposed to slip in high winds to avoid tarp damage.

Can't say that I've head that one before. I thought that the advantage was that you can slid it when you want and that it's rock solid other wise.

To keep the pull on the prussics in a straight line rather than at a downward angle you could run the CRL thru the end loops of your tarp and then prussic as usual. Or - a small 'S'-hook in the end loop that hooks up over the CRL to keep the corner of the tarp close to the CRL. That's what I am currently doing.

That's a good idea. I might have to try that before I spend more money.

[mrcheviot]

I'd recommend trying this: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...eline-Examples

You have everything you need without having to buy anything else, RL runs above the tarp as desired, easiest method I've found to center the tarp.

For steps 1 and 2, instead of the dutch hook on the end of the RL that attaches to a loop on the D-Ring, attach an s-biner on the d-ring (which replaces the hook). The loop then moves to the end of the RL - splice a loop in the end, or put a prussic at the end of it, wrap 3-4 times and *finish the knot* so there's no extra slack in the wraps. You can tell you've got it right if you pull hard linearly in either direction and it doesn't slip. If you're worried about it, put a stopper knot at the end of your RL so it can't slide any further. Anyway do that and you'll have a loop at the end of your RL which clips into the s-biner.

For step 3, at the other end attach the Figure 9 to the D-Ring instead of the flyz/stingerz. You can splice a loop onto it, or larks head a loop onto it.. either way, larks hard the whole thing the D-ring.

This works great, I setup a tarp this way while waiting for stuff from Dutch and it works so well I haven't bothered to swap it out. Works great if you're using tarp skins (just make sure you don't roll the tarp over the RL when sliding the skins on). You'll need a CRL of about 35', for more flexibility put a loop on the Flyz/Fig9 end of the CRL (again, splice or prussic) so you can attach an extender in case you hit wide or far spanning trees.

[brianb]

I switched my prusiks on my continuous ridge to 65lb spectra fishing line. My other prusik got misplaced and I keep a big length of sprectra in my pack. Takes the place of dental floss for me for all around repairs. Anyway, the prusiks hold tight even on small line. Biggest drawback is the line is very thin and can be hard to see. You may want to leave something hanging off of them. I've got a shockcord shackle hanging off of mine that attaches to my tarp.

Good luck

[Curmudgeon]

Long ago I had issues getting the tarp taut, and staying that way. My solution was to loosely set the CRL at the trees, get the tarp set, then go back and tension the CRL using the figure 9 as a mechanical advantage.

Granted, that was with the CRL set under the tarp, but I see no reason why the same methodology couldn't be used for an over-the-tarp scenario.

Using that method should get your line tighter, and thus give you a better angle from the CRL to the prussik

[Mouseskowitz]

I'd recommend trying this: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...eline-Examples

You have everything you need without having to buy anything else, RL runs above the tarp as desired, easiest method I've found to center the tarp.

For steps 1 and 2, instead of the dutch hook on the end of the RL that attaches to a loop on the D-Ring, attach an s-biner on the d-ring (which replaces the hook). The loop then moves to the end of the RL - splice a loop in the end, or put a prussic at the end of it, wrap 3-4 times and *finish the knot* so there's no extra slack in the wraps. You can tell you've got it right if you pull hard linearly in either direction and it doesn't slip. If you're worried about it, put a stopper knot at the end of your RL so it can't slide any further. Anyway do that and you'll have a loop at the end of your RL which clips into the s-biner.

For step 3, at the other end attach the Figure 9 to the D-Ring instead of the flyz/stingerz. You can splice a loop onto it, or larks head a loop onto it.. either way, larks hard the whole thing the D-ring.

This works great, I setup a tarp this way while waiting for stuff from Dutch and it works so well I haven't bothered to swap it out. Works great if you're using tarp skins (just make sure you don't roll the tarp over the RL when sliding the skins on). You'll need a CRL of about 35', for more flexibility put a loop on the Flyz/Fig9 end of the CRL (again, splice or prussic) so you can attach an extender in case you hit wide or far spanning trees.

That sounds like it might have potential. I could probably just use the soft shackles that I'm trying to use as prussics now to attach to the d-rings. I already have end loops on the CLR for extensions.

Long ago I had issues getting the tarp taut, and staying that way. My solution was to loosely set the CRL at the trees, get the tarp set, then go back and tension the CRL using the figure 9 as a mechanical advantage.

Granted, that was with the CRL set under the tarp, but I see no reason why the same methodology couldn't be used for an over-the-tarp scenario.

Using that method should get your line tighter, and thus give you a better angle from the CRL to the prussik

The problem isn't getting the CRL itself tight, I currently have figure 9s on it. The problem is that the tarp is moving on the CRL causing slack.